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PAN-ROAST FISH WITH MOREL SAUCE

Serve with creamy mash potato and spicy coleslaw.

Pan-fried fish with morel sauce

For the potato mash
1 kg/2 lbs potatoes, skin on
75 ml/⅓ cup of double cream
75 ml/⅓ cup milk
50 g/1.7 oz butter
salt and freshly ground white pepper

For the morel sauce
30 g/1 oz butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
8 dried morels
6 white peppercorns, crushed
4 red sorrel leaves
½ cup/125 ml Noilly Prat
1 cup/250 ml white wine
1 cup/250 ml prawn stock
¾ cup/175 ml cream
salt to taste

For the coleslaw
2 medium carrots, peeled and finely shredded
½ small cabbage, finely shredded
1 small apple, grated
½ cup/125 ml celeriac, finely shredded
½ red onion, finely chopped
2 spring onions, finely sliced
½ cup/125 ml fresh coriander

For the dressing
2 tablespoons/30 ml fresh ginger, minced
2 tablespoons/30 ml Japanese mayonnaise
2 teaspoons/10 ml rice wine vinegar
½ teaspoon/3 ml fine sugar
pinch of salt

For the fish
4 x 200 g firm white fish fillets, scaled and pin-boned, with skin on
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon/15 ml olive oil
1 tablespoon/15 ml butter

Panfried fish with morel sauce

  • For the potatoes and if you have the time, heat the oven to 180˚C/356°F, place the potatoes in the oven and cook until tender.
  • This will take about 90 minutes. Otherwise, boil them whole with skin on until totally soft.
  • Drain and remove the skin while still hot.
Put the potatoes through a ricer or, to make the mash really smooth, pass through a drum sieve. Stir some of the cream mixture through the potatoes and keep warm.
  • For the sauce, heat the butter in a saucepan over medium heat, then add the shallots, morels, peppercorns and sorrel and lightly sauté until the shallots are translucent, but not brown.
  • Deglaze the pan with the Noilly Prat and reduce until about half. Then add the white wine and reduce again until half.
  • Finally add the prawn stock and cream and reduce again until half. Set aside for the flavors to intensify, then pick out the 8 morels and set them aside for garnish.
  • For the coleslaw, combine all the ingredients in a large bowl. Drizzle some lemon juice over, cover and set aside in the refrigerator.
  • For the dressing, whisk all the ingredients together and set aside.
    Pour the dressing over the slaw just before serving.
  • For the fish, preheat the oven to 100°C/212°F and season the fish. Heat a frying pan and add the oil and once the oil is hot, fry the fish skin side down for one to two minutes (depending on the thickness) when the skin turns golden, then add the butter and spoon the foamy butter over the fish whilst cooking for another minute.
  • Remove the pan from the heat and put in the oven for 5 minutes.
If you feel uncomfortable with the doneness of the fish or if your fish is very thick, let it cook for an extra minute but not longer.

To serve

  • Heat four serving plates.
  • When ready to serve, mix in a little more of the cream mixture to the potatoes until it reaches the consistency you want and gently reheat.
  • Strain the morel sauce, adjust the seasoning and gently reheat. Add the reserved morels.
  • Pour the dressing over the coleslaw and gently mix through.
  • Place dollops of mashed potatoes on each plate and top with a piece of fish. Pour the sauce around the fish, making sure that each plate has 2 morels, and scatter the coleslaw around.
  • Serve immediately.

By STELLA

I have had no formal chef’s training. Classical piano was my parents’ choice, and that took care of the first 20 years of my life. Journalism and radio followed (my own choices, this time), and these opened many doors for me into different countries, people, cultures — and, of course, foods. In a six week series on radio I used it as a platform for my love of food and shared lots of interesting recipes and food news with listeners.
My earliest memories of food come from the family kitchen at home; I can still remember the wonderful smells of the dishes my mother prepared. I became aware of the flavors of her creations at an early age. Some I enjoyed and preferred, while others depressed me with their lack of interesting flavors. My mother was a good cook, but not a gourmet, and sadly this often showed. What I did appreciate was that she always involved me in the preparation, sharing her knowledge of nutrition, flavor, color, and the harmonies of each plate she dished up. She was also a genius with leftovers and quick meals when unexpected guests arrived. This is one of the things that stands out in my mind, and it inspired me to create wonderful dishes from leftover foods myself.

I carried on with the tradition of carefully planning meals to combine nutrition, color and flavor, while at the same time offering variety and elegant presentation. In the process, I developed a passion for seeking out the best available products, adhering to each season’s offerings, and treating it with the respect it deserves, which eventually became part of my daily culinary life and travels. I did these things not because I wanted to become a chef, but to satisfy myself, family and friends with creations of gorgeous food and exciting flavors. All of which, I hope, is reflected in this blog.

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