GLOSSARY / METHODS / BASIC RECIPES

CHIVE OIL

In a processor blend ½ cup/125 ml chives with ½ cup/125 ml of extra virgin olive oil and ½ cup/125 ml peanut oil.  Process well and let it infuse for a few hours.  The chive oil will last up to 1 week.  Store in the refrigerate and let it come back to room temperature about 10 minutes before needed.

CHOCOLATE CURLS
As suggested for Baked chocolate pudding
In a heat-proof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, break chocolate in pieces and melt until smooth and creamy.  Pour the melted chocolate over a cool smooth surface and spread thinly and evenly.  Leave until it is just set, then push a metal scraper or cheese slicer slowly across the surface, at an angle of 25°.  The thin shavings of chocolate will curl gently against the blade. Store the curls covered in a cool dry place.

If the chocolate sets too hard, it may be too brittle to curl and must be melted again gently.

QUICK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
As suggested for Papaya mousse with chocolate and orange
1 teaspoon/5 ml gelatin powder
1 tablespoon/15 ml cold water
2 tablespoons/30 ml boiling water
½ cup/125 ml sugar
¼ cup/60 ml cocoa
1 cup/250 ml whipping cream
1 teaspoon/5 ml vanilla extract
shaved chocolate

In a small bowl sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water and let stand 1 minute. Add the boiling water and stir until the gelatin is dissolved.

In a separate bowl stir together the sugar, cocoa, whipping cream, and vanilla.  Beat on medium speed of an electric mixer until the mixture is stiff.
Add the gelatin mixture and beat until well blended. Spoon into cocktail glasses and sprinkle with shaved chocolate. Chill for 1 hour before serving.

CLARIFIED BUTTER
This is butter that has had the whey and the milk solids removed which allows the butter to be heated to a higher temperature without burning.

To make clarified butter:
Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium heat.  As it melts, the butter will start sizzling as the water evaporates and the butter breaks up in three layers.  A sediment will form in the base of the pan, a froth will form on top and the clear butter in the middle. The sediment on the bottom should not go brown in the process and the froth on top has to be skimmed. Pour the butter through a sieve lined with cheesecloth to trap the milk solids. Store the clarified butter covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks or freeze it for 3 months.

When the recipe calls for foaming butter, do not use clarified butter because the impurities that you remove when clarifying, is in fact what encourages the foaming.

CLARIFYING STOCK  FOR CLEAR  SOUPS  OR  ASPIC
As used for  Quail’s eggs and prawn set in aspic molds

Clarified stock is used for clear soup and savory jellies. Egg white is added to the stock which, when boiled, coagulates and traps the matter that made the liquid cloudy.  The egg white forms a crust on top which are removed before straining the clear liquid.  A certain amount of flavor will be lost in the process, but adding a quantity of finely chopped aromatic vegetables or whatever the recipe specifies, will rectify that.

To clarify chicken stock, you will need:
chicken stock (the quantity specified for the recipe)
vegetables and any additional flavoring that the recipe specifies
salt and pepper
egg white
gelatin (if you want to make aspic)
See “Gelatin” further down for quantities to set volumes.

Place the stock with the additional vegetables and gelatin in a deep saucepan. Whisk the egg white lightly and add to the cold stock, then heat gently whilst whisking vigorously until the mixture starts to steam.  Stop whisking and watch the egg white form a thick white crust on the surface as the stock starts boiling underneath. The impurities in the stock will surface and get trapped in the egg white crust.  Decrease the heat and cook gently for another 10 minutes.  Do  not  stir  the  stock at all.  Remove the saucepan from the heat, then carefully lift the crust off the stock and discard.  Through a sieve lined with double cheesecloth and over a large bowl, slowly ladle the stock through. Do not squeeze the cheesecloth or force the liquid through.  The stock is now clarified.

CRÈME FRAÎCHE
Crème Fraîche is a heavy cream slightly soured with a bacterial culture, but not as sour as sour cream. Crème fraîche, like sour cream, is used in food preparation, but the advantage of using crème fraîche instead of sour cream is that it can be whipped like cream.  And, because of its high fat content, unlike sour cream, crème fraîche can be used in hot dishes without curdling.  It is also delicious as a substitute for whipping cream or sour cream in cream soups. Combined with 1 teaspoon/5 ml snipped fresh herbs, serve it hot or cold with fish or poultry.  And spooned over cakes, pies, and fruits, such as strawberries, makes an exceptional addition to desserts.

To make your own crème fraîche:
Add 1 teaspoon/5 ml cultured buttermilk and 1 cup/250 ml double cream into a saucepan and heat gently to 85°C/185°F. Pour into a container, partially cover and leave at warm room temperature for 6-8 hours, or until thickened.  When thick, stir the cream, cover and refrigerate. The flavor intensifies and the cream thickens the longer it stands.

DASHI GRANULES
As used with Fish and prawn tempura.

Dashi is Japan’s fundamental stock and seasoning, much used in Japanese cooking, particularly in Japanese soups and dipping sauces for tempura, stews and salad dressings. It is made from dried flakes of bonito (dried, smoked and cured bonito, a type of tuna, which has a strong aroma but a smoky, mellow flavor), kelp and shiitake mushrooms and are available in granule form in Asian supermarkets.

EGG WHITES
When a recipe requires egg yolks only, the left over egg whites can be frozen and thawed for future use. Freeze each egg white in an ice-cube tray and then transfer to either a freezer bag or a container.

Once thawed, whites will beat to a better volume if allowed to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

GARLIC
Roasted:
Cut off the pointed top of the garlic bulb (not the bottom end which is flat).  Place each whole bulb (the cut end facing up) on a piece of foil big enough to encase the whole bulb, drizzle one teaspoon/5 ml of olive oil over the cut surface, and sprinkle with salt. Bring the corners of the foil together and enclose the whole bulb.  Place in a baking dish and roast for 45-60 minutes, until the garlic is soft when squeezing the bulb in the foil with a pair of tongs.  Remove from foil and use immediately or store covered in the refrigerator until needed. The cloves will pop right out of the paper skin when squeezed.

Blanched:
Use as many garlic cloves as you wish.  Peel them and place them in a sauce pan covered with cold water.  Bring the water to the boil, remove from the heat, drain (discard the water), place back in the pan and cover again with cold water.  Repeat this process three times. After the third time, drain the garlic, rinse under cold water, drain again and put aside for when needed.

GARAM MASALA
As used in the recipe for the Indian chicken dish.

Garam masala is a blend of ground spices common in Indian cuisine. Chef’s that specialize in Indian cuisine, all have their own blends.  This is my version:
In a coffee grinder, grind the following spices until fine, then store in a sealed jar in the deep-freeze. It is wise to put a date on the container.
4 x 2.5 cm/1 in cinnamon sticks
3 cloves
3 black peppercorns
2 black cardamom pods, crushed to release the seeds, husks removed
2 teaspoons/10 ml cumin seeds

GELATIN
Gelatin, extracted from the bones and cartilage of animals and certain algae, is colorless and odorless and is used for making jellies and glazing, sweet or savory. It is available in granule form which should be dissolved in warm water; or gelatin leaves which should be soaked in cold water, excess water squeezed out, then dissolved in  warm liquid.

Do not use gelatin with fruit like raw pineapple, raw kiwi fruit or raw pawpaw unless cooked. These fruits contain an enzyme that prevents it from gelling. The cooking process, however, destroys the enzyme.

Do not boil the gelatin as it reduces setting power;  the liquid in which the gelatin is to be dissolved, should be heated very gently.
Here is a rough guide to make it easier:
gelatin leaf = 2 teaspoons/10 ml gelatin granules
1 gelatin leaf = 23 cm x 7 cm/9 in x 2.7 in
=  3 g/0.1 oz
3 gelatin leafs should set roughly 1 cup/250 ml liquid.

GLUCOSE
White sugar is nearly 100% sucrose, a simple carbohydrate, which is composed of two sugars, namely glucose and fructose.   Glucose is present in the blood and is used as a source of energy by the body.  It is  naturally found in ripe fruit and honey and is also industrially used to increase the sugar content of wine and beer, and in the manufacture of syrup, etc.  Liquid glucose is a colorless syrup of which, amongst others, is used to prevent sugar syrup from crystallizing.  It is available in well stocked supermarkets and health shops.

Glucose is very sticky and an easy way to measure it is with either a heated spoon or a spoon dipped in oil. The glucose will simply slip off the spoon. Do the same with honey and corn syrup.

HARISSA
As use in  the yoghurt cream with the Lamb shanks poached in spicy broth.

1 preserved lemon, chopped,  or zest of two lemons
4 hot green chilies
½ teaspoon/3 ml salt crystals
2 cloves garlic
¼ cup/60 ml mint leaves, chopped
1 cup/250 ml coriander leaves and stems, roughly chopped
2 teaspoons/10 ml coriander seeds, toasted and ground
1 cup/250 ml olive oil

In a processor (or pestle and mortar), mince the lemon and chilies with the salt, then add the garlic, mint leaves and ground coriander and then slowly add the olive oil whilst the machine is running.  Blend until the desired consistency is reached.  Set aside for at least one hour for the flavors to infuse.

HORSERADISH CREAM
As used with the recipe for the Smoked trout mousse and as a suggestion with Oxtail wrapped in herb dumplings.
This sauce also goes well with apples, beef, beets, chicken, chives, cream, crème fraîche, eggs, fish, pork, salmon, sausages, shellfish, smoked fish, sour cream, trout, walnuts, yogurt, etc.

¼ cup/60 ml fresh horseradish, grated
1 tablespoon/15 ml Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon/3 ml sugar
1 teaspoon/5 ml white wine vinegar or lemon juice
1 tablespoon/15 ml fresh dill, finely chopped
1 cup/50 ml fresh full cream
salt and  freshly ground black pepper

In a food processor blend the horseradish, mustard, sugar, vinegar or lemon juice and dill. In a separate bowl, whisk the cream until stiff then fold into the horseradish mixture. Season to taste and refrigerate for 4 – 8 hours.

The horseradish cream can be strained through a fine sieve if you wish to have a very smooth and silky result.

HORSERADISH CREAM  —  OTHER USES

• Add horseradish cream to scrambled eggs, omelets and frittata before cooking.
• It can also be added to mayonnaise or salad dressings for sandwiches or to dressing for salads.
• Horseradish cream added to the hollandaise sauce for eggs Benedict gives it a delightful lift.
• It adds extra zing to dishes such as coleslaw, cooked spinach and potato salad.
• Use horseradish cream as a topping baked potato.

JAPANESE STYLE BREADCRUMBS (PANKO)
Panko breadcrumbs, made from white bread with the crusts cut off, have a coarser texture and a more elongated shape than ordinary breadcrumbs.  It also exhibits a porous structure that results in a tender/crisp texture and therefore makes for a much lighter and crunchier topping or coating.  They brown better when fried, do not get soggy on the inside and stay crunchier on the outside. Panko breadcrumbs are available in Asian food stores or well stock supermarkets.

JAPANESE MAYONNAISE
This is a creamy mayonnaise, containing soya bean oil and rice vinegar and has a slightly salty and sweet flavor. As this mayonnaise contains raw egg, it needs to be refrigerated, and should not be consumed by the very young, the elderly, pregnant women and people with impaired immune systems.  Available in well stocked supermarkets.

MASCARPONE CHEESE
As used in the recipe for Tirimasu
Make your own:
Heat 2 cups/1 liter cream in a stainless steel double boiler to 85°C/185°F.  Dissolve a pinch of tartaric acid in 2 tablespoons/30 ml water and stir into the hot cream, stir well. It should start to thicken almost immediately. Maintain the 85°C/185°F for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Refrigerate covered for 12 hours in a plastic container in which time the whey should separate somewhat. Transfer to a sterile muslin cloth, and suspend over a bowl for 24 hours in the refrigerator to allow the whey to drain out.  Transfer the finished mascarpone to a smaller air tight container, store in the refrigerator and use within a week to ten days.

MARZIPAN
As used for the Banana marzipan spring rolls

Marzipan is an almond and sugar paste used to ice cakes and other pastries, and sculpted into a variety of shapes to be eaten as candy or used as cake decorations. It is simply a mixture of almond paste, powdered sugar, and a moistening agent such as water, corn syrup, glucose, fondant, or egg whites. After the ingredients are mixed, marzipan reaches a consistency of dough or soft rubber and can be rolled, shaped, cut, or molded.

Make your own:
This recipe will cover a cake of about 20-22 cm/8-8.6 in.
500 g/17.6 oz sifted icing sugar
450 g/1 lb ground almonds
2 egg whites
½ teaspoon/3 ml vanilla flavoring
1 teaspoon/5 ml lemon juice

Sift the icing sugar in a bowl with the ground almonds. Add the remaining ingredients and mix to make a stiff paste, then knead until smooth. (As a substitute to raw eggs it is possible to use a little water mixed with brandy to bind the paste).  Wrap well in cling film and store in a cool place for 1 hour before use or up to 24 hours.
Please note:  This recipe contains raw eggs.

MASCARPONE
Mascarpone is a thick, double or triple cream, soft cream cheese with a very high fat content. The texture is that of thickened cream that is on its way to becoming butter. Making your own mascarpone at home is simple, cheaper than the shop bought ones and utterly delicious. It can be used for both sweet and savory dishes and enhances the flavor of the dish without overwhelming the original taste. Mascarpone is used in ie the Italian dessert, Tiramisu, cheesecake (see Baked cheesecake with blackberry sauce) or served alone with fruit or fruit syrup. It makes charming canopies, topped with anchovies, tomato, smoked salmon, etc in fact, any topping you would normally put on top of a cream cheese snack. Mascarpone needs to be consumed within a few days.

Make your own

You will need:
a heavy based saucepan
a candy thermometer
a few layers of cheesecloth
emplty bowl
airtight container

The ingredients needed:
2 cups/500 ml full cream, pasteurized
1 tablespoon/15 ml lemon juice, freshly squeezed

Heat the full cream to a simmer in a heavy based saucepan over medium heat until the thermometer reads 88°C/190°F. As soon as the cream reaches the right temperature, stir in die lemon juice and bring the heat back to 88°C/190°F.  Leave there for 5 minutes whilst stirring constantly. (The cream should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.)  Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature (30-45 minutes).
Pour the cream through a few layers of cheesecloth over an empty bowl.  Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight to allow the cream the strain properly.  Discard the whey.  Now you can call the strained cream, Mascarpone.  Transfer to an airtight container in the refrigerator and use within a week.

MAYONNAISE

This recipe requires the eggs, vinegar, mustard and oil to be at the same temperature

(Makes 4 cups/1 liter)2 whole eggs
5 tablespoons/75 ml white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon/5 ml Dijon mustard
4 cups/1 liter vegetable oil
salt and cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon/3 ml lemon juice

In a processor, blend the eggs, vinegar and mustard well and with the motor running, slowly pour in the oil until all is incorporated.  If it is too thick, just add a little warm water. Season with salt, cayenne pepper and lemon juice.
Please note:  This recipe contains raw eggs.

MERINGUE, ITALIAN
½ cup/125 ml water
200 g/7 oz castor sugar
4 egg whites

Heat the sugar and water over low heat until all the sugar has dissolved, then bring to the boil and boil without stirring, until it reaches 120°C/248°F on a sugar thermometer.
Whisk the egg whites until stiff, then gradually add the syrup, beating constantly until the meringue has cooled completely (about 5 minutes).  Use as soon as possible.

MIRIN
As used in the dressing for Fish and prawn tempura

Mirin, is a low-alcohol sweet Japanese cooking wine, made of a mixture of medium grain rice, glutinous rice and distilled rice spirit, then matured for two months.  It adds a lovely glaze to grilled foods and a mild sweetness in cooking. Mirin is sold in well stocked supermarkets, but it can be substituted with dry sherry to which sugar is added but will not have the same results in flavor.

MISO PASTE
Miso paste is a Japanese fermented soybean paste, and is made from cultivating soybeans in either a barley, rice or soybean base.  It is available in different grades, colors and strengths.  White miso is sweet and usually used in soups, sauces and for marinating fish. The darker colored miso is salty and normally used in heavier dishes.  Miso paste is sold in well stocked supermarkets.

NOILLY PRAT
As used in the recipe for Seafood pie with a golden potato crust.

Noilly Prat is a special French vermouth, excellent for cooking and can be used in most ways that wine, brandy or sherry can be used. It gives a unique flavor to fish and chicken and can be used in a wide range of cocktails. Also add it to sauces, stews, risottos and fruit dishes.  It is infused with a long list of herbs ie camomile, coriander, bitter orange peel, nutmeg, etc. but the full list remains secret. Each of the plants and herbs used is prepared in the traditional manner and only plants that have been dried slowly are accepted, resulting in flavoring qualities unique to Noilly Prat.

OIL, COOKING WITH

PRACTICAL AND SAFETY TIPS FOR DEEP FRYING
To check the temperature of oil without a thermometer, test by carefully putting a cube of bread in the hot oil.  If the bread browns within —

60 seconds, the temperature is about 160°C/320°F (low)
40 seconds, the temperature is about 180°C/356°F (moderate)
20 seconds, the oil is about 190°C/374°F (hot)

• The smoke point of your choice of oil should be taken into consideration. Oils with low smoke points such as olive oil are not good choices for deep-frying as they burn and break down at temperatures lower than the ideal frying temperatures for most foods. Choose vegetable oils or vegetable shortening; never use coconut oil, olive oil, or butter in your deep fat fryer.
• To cool the oil down when it is too hot, turn off the stove and add slices of bread to the oil to help cooling it down. Discard the bread when the oil has reached the correct temperature.
• Dip the basket of the fryer in the hot oil to coat the wires before adding the food.  This will prevent the food from sticking.
• Cook the food in small batches.  If you crowd the pan, the oil will cool down and the food will absorb too much oil, thus preventing it from becoming brown and crispy.
• Always drain deep-fried food on paper towel placed on top of folded newspaper to absorb the excess oil.
• Fried food needs a free circulation of air to stay crisp when keeping it warm.  Spread it out on an oven rack and leave in a warm oven with the oven door ajar.
• Oil can be reused a few times providing it is used for the same type of food, i.e. if you deep-fried fish, use it for fish next time. Pour the oil through a coffee filter into a clean and empty container and mark it as ie “fish”, etc.
• When the oil becomes too dark after it has been used a few times, discard it.  Find out from your local authorities how to dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way.
• If using an electric fryer:
• Using a deep fryer is safer than a chip pan.  Deep fryers are less likely to tip than chip pans (avoiding scalding oil), and generally have thermometers to prevent overheating. Familiarizing yourself with the operation of the equipment before using.
• The surface that you use your deep fryer on should be able to withstand the high temperatures that the fryer reaches during operation.
• Use the basket if your fryer has one. This makes it safe and easy to get the foods in and out of the hot oil after it has been cooked. Never place plastic or silicone utensils into the fryer as they will melt and leach toxic chemicals into the oil which will contaminate your food.
• Be sure to dry your foods properly before submerging into the hot oil. Water and ice can cause bubbles in the oil which can explode sending scalding hot oil all over the area surrounding the fryer. Coating foods in a batter before deep-frying can also help to prevent splatters and problems with moisture content. Do not leave hot oil unattended.
• Never overfill the deep-fryer with oil.  Read the manual that comes with the fryer before using it. Most fryers have a maximum level to which you can fill it with oil and these guidelines should be respected.
• Never use an electrical extension cord when frying with the deep fryer. Long cords could cause you tripping over the cord and spill very hot oil all over yourself causing burns.

OYSTER SAUCE
As used in recipe for Pork spring rolls and the Broccoli risotto with Barbequed marinate quail

Oyster sauce is a viscous sauce prepared from oysters and brine, commonly used in Chinese cuisine for enhancing the flavor of foods. The sauce is often used as a topping for steamed vegetables and stir-fries.

A good quality oyster sauce is made by condensing oyster extracts which is made by cooking oysters in water until a desired viscosity has been reached, with no other additives except salt.

PALM SUGAR
As use in recipe for Poached beef brisket

Palm sugar, also known as Java sugar or coconut sugar, is frequently used in Asian cuisine.  This dark brown, crumbly palm sugar is made from the reduced sap of either the sugar palm or the heart of palm. The trunk of the tree is tapped and drained of its sap for several months before the sap is boiled down to a syrup. The syrup is then dried into cakes, traditionally in empty coconut shells. Occasionally, the syrup is smoked first, giving the sugar a black color and distinctive flavor. If you do not have palm sugar combine 1 cup dark brown sugar with 2 teaspoons molasses.

PAPRIKA
As used in Cured and seared spicy salmon

Paprika, a distinctive feature of Hungarian cooking, is a spice ground from varieties of mild sweet red peppers to the round, hot cherry peppers. The pods are harvested at the end of the summer when they are red, then dried and crushed.  In Spain peppers are smoked before being made into paprika.

PASTRY CREAM (CUSTARD)
As used for making Strawberry cake with custard and meringue and Trifle

3 free-range egg yolks
60 g/2 oz sugar
1¼ cups/310 ml milk
⅓ cup/80 ml fresh full cream, lightly whisked
20 g/0.7 oz flour
20 g/0.7 oz cornstarch
seeds from 1 vanilla pod

Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until pale and fluffy. Heat the milk but remove from the heat just before it starts boiling.  Mix a few spoons of the hot milk with the egg mixture, then add the flours and vanilla seeds and mix well.  Pour the whole mixture back into the rest of the heated milk, mix well and bring slowly to the boil, stirring continuously. When the sauce has thickened sufficiently, remove from the heat and pour into a cooled bowl.  Set aside, covered with greaseproof paper, to cool until ready to use.

PEPPERS, ROASTING 
Optional use for recipe with Cured and seared spicy salmon

When you roast peppers over high heat, their skins blacken and blister, but peel the skins off and you will discover sweet, tender flesh with a pleasantly smoky flavor. Any fresh pepper can be roasted, but those with thick flesh, such as sweet peppers and jalapeños, work best.

To roast the peppers, heat the oven to very hot, about 230°C/446°F.  Rub the peppers all over with olive oil and put them whole in a heatproof oven dish.  Roast until the skins are blistered and irregularly charred on all sides, 20-30 minutes. Remove from the heat and place them in a plastic bag, seal the bag and let stand for 30 minutes. The steam produced will lift the skin from the flesh and peel away quite easily.  When the peppers have cooled off sufficiently, remove from the bag and pull off the skins, working over a bowl to collect all the juices.  Cut open the peppers and remove the seeds and membranes, then cut each pepper into desired sizes. Pass all the juices through a small sieve to remove the seeds and use as an addition to the dressing you might need in your recipe.

POPPADUM
As served with Indian chicken dish

These tortilla-shaped Indian crackers are made with chickpea or lentil flour with different strengths of flavoring.  Before serving, it needs to be fried briefly in hot oil until it puffs up and becomes crisp.   Serve with curried dishes, or use like tortilla chips.  Available in well-stocked supermarkets.

PUFF PASTRY
Use for Puff pastry apple and sultana parcels

You can, of course, buy ready-made puff pastry, but the pride and satisfaction of having made a successful puff pastry — watching it rising to a golden crispy crust in the oven — is worth a million dollars. Needless to say, the flavor of the all butter pastry is phenomenal.

Making your own puff pastry is quite a daunting task, but the pride and satisfaction

500 g/17.6 lbs plain flour, sifted
500 g/17.6 lbs butter, chilled and cut into small dice
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1¾ cup/310 ml ice water
1 teaspoon/5 ml salt

In a food processor, measure 25 g/0.8 oz of the flour and 450 g/15.8 ozof the butter and mix well.  Spoon the mixture out onto a large piece of plastic film and shape into a neat rectangle of approximately 14 x 20 cm/5.5 x 7.8 in.  Put in the refrigerator.

Mix the rest of the flour (450 g/15.8 oz) the balance of the butter (25 g/0.8 oz), the lemon juice and salt and process, adding the iced water little by little until the dough comes together nicely.  Lift it out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth.  Roll out and shape into a neat rectangle of about 25 x 35 cm /9.8  x 13.7 in with the edges as straight as possible.  Unwrap the butter mixture and place diagonally over the center of the pastry.  Pull up the far ends of the dough to cover the butter mixture and press the seams down gently to seal them. Press down the sides to seal in the butter.

Roll out the dough carefully (the butter must not break out) in one direction only until it is about three times as long as it is wide and the corners square – gently easing them out with your fingertips if necessary.

Fold the top part a third of the way down, then fold the bottom part over that to make 3 layers.  With the rolling pin, press the seams gently together.  Turn the dough 90° to the right so that it would open like a book.

Roll out once more in a rectangle 3 times as long as it is wide, repeat the folds and press the edges with the rolling pin.  Turn 90° again.  Wrap in place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Repeat the rolling and folding and turning of 90° four times (every time in the same direction), placing the pastry in the refrigerator after each time.

The pastry is now ready to be used.  If you are not going to use all of it immediately, divide up in size portions you will require and wrap each one individually in plastic film.  It will freeze very well and should be taken out of the freezer about 1 hour to defrost at room temperature.  It is better to defrost it in the refrigerator overnight.

PUY LENTILS
These choice lentils were originally from Puy in France, but are also grown in North America and Italy.  They are a very good source of cholesterol-lowering fiber but are a special benefit in managing blood sugar levels. They are especially good in salads since they remain firm after cooking and have a rich flavor.

RICOTTA CHEESE
Used in recipe for Mixed berry and ricotta cream tarts

Ricotta, meaning “cooked again”, is a cheese by-product, which refers to the production method used to make it. It is made from the whey drained from such cheeses as mozzarella, provolone, and other cheeses, and is a fresh, soft, white cheese with a rich but mild, slightly sweet flavor. The texture is much like a grainy, thick sour cream, but is naturally low in fat, with a fat content ranging from 4 to 10 percent, and it is also low in salt. Ricotta is also a favorite component of many Italian desserts as Mixed berry and ricotta cream tarts.  It is often beaten smooth and mixed with condiments, such as sugar, cinnamon and occasionally chocolate shavings, and served as a dessert. Since ricotta is made primarily from lactose-rich whey, it should be avoided by those who are lactose-intolerant.

Make your own:
4 cups/1 liter whole milk
1 cup/250 ml plain whole-milk yogurt
½ cup/125 ml heavy cream (optional but it will enrich the ricotta flavor)
2 teaspoons/10 ml white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon/5 ml salt

In a large pot, bring the milk, yogurt, heavy cream (if using), vinegar, and salt to a boil. Very gently boil for one to two minutes, until the milk is curdled.

Meanwhile, line a strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth and set it over a deep bowl. Pour the milk mixture into the strainer and let drain for 15 minutes. Gather the cheesecloth around the curds and squeeze gently to extract any excess liquid.

Storage: Homemade ricotta is best served slightly warm, although it can be refrigerated for up to three days, if desired.

Makes 2 cups/500 ml.

SAFFRON
As used in Seafood soup with garlic mayonnaise.

Saffron is a spice derived from the flower of the saffron crocus which has only three stigmas each.  These stigmas are picked by hand (that is why it is the world’s most expensive spice by weight), dried,  and used in cooking, but it only takes a few threads to add saffron’s distinct rich golden-yellow color and earthy aroma to food.

SAKE
Sake is a Japanese liquor made from fermented rice. A good sake is marked by achieving a perfect balance between sweetness and acidity and that can only be maintained through the combination of proper water, malt, yeast and steamed rice.  No technology involved, only the experience of skilled artisans who have special insight into the subtleties of minute changes in climate, rice and water.

Sake is available from Asian supermarkets or well stocked liquor  stores.

SHAOXING RICE WINE
As used in marinade for Duck legs confit

Shaoxing Rice Wine  —  a traditional Chinese wine, fermented from rice  — originating from the region of Shaoxing, in eastern China. It is widely used as both a beverage and a cooking wine in Chinese cuisine. It is internationally well known and renowned throughout Asia and available at all Asian supermarkets.

SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
Also known as Chinese mushrooms, although they are cultivated by the Japanese. The Chinese usually use dried ones, which have a strong flavor and aroma but need to be soaked to reconstitute for at least 2 hours before they are used.  The soaking liquid, strained, can be used to add flavor to dishes.

SICHUAN PEPPERCORNS
This is not strictly speaking pepper but berries of a shrub called prickly ash.  Sichuan pepper, unlike ordinary pepper, has a pungent flavor and the aftertaste, rather than being hot as is in the case of pepper, is numbing.  The “peppercorns” should be crushed and dry-roasted to bring out their full flavor.

STAR ANISE
Star anise is a star-shaped dried seed pod that closely resembles anise in flavor and is widely used in Chinese cuisine.  It is a major component of five-spice powder, and in Indian cuisine it is used as one of the spices to mix garam masala.

Recently, star anise has come into use in the West as a less expensive substitute for anise in baking as well as in liquor production.  It is also used in a tea as a remedy for colic and rheumatism, and the seeds are sometimes chewed after meals to aid digestion.

This interesting spice is an industrial source of a primary ingredient used to create the anti-flu drug for bird flu, Tamiflu, which as a result created  a temporary shortage of the spice in 2005. Fortunately that has changed and star anise is again readily available.

STILL-FREEZING
Place the empty shallow container in which you wish to freeze the ice cream in the freezer for about 30 minutes before pouring the cream mixture into it.  Ice crystals form in the inside of the container as the mixture freezes and it needs to be broken down and mixed into the rest.  Do this after 30 minutes by whisking (or processing with the pulse setting) the mixture until it is smooth again.  Return to the freezer and repeat every half hour for about 3 hours or until it become more solid and smooth.  Take care not to overwork the mixture as it might become grainy.

STOCKS:

BEEF STOCK
2 kg/4.4 lbs beef bones, cut into small pieces
2 pig’s trotters, cleaned thoroughly and split in half (ask your butcher to do it for you)
2 tablespoons/30 ml oil
2 small brown onions, skin on
3 cm/1.2 inch piece of ginger, bruised
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
star anise
6 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
2 whole nutmeg
2 tablespoons/30 ml Asian fish sauce

Preheat the oven to 200°C/392°F.
Place the beef bones and the trotters on an oven tray and cook in a very hot oven until browned all over.  In a large stockpot, heat the oil and lightly fry the onions and ginger, then add the beef bones and trotters and the rest of the ingredients.  Add 4 liters/8.5 pts water, and bring to the boil.  Simmer gently over low-medium heat and regularly skim the brown foam that forms on the surface.  Simmer for 4 hours, adding enough water to keep the contents submerged, then remove from the heat.

Cool to room temperature, then strain, do not press down on the solids as this will cause the stock to become cloudy.  Cover and refrigerate until cold, then remove the fat from the  surface.  Refrigerate for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 3 months.

CHICKEN STOCK
¼ cup/60 ml olive oil
4 celery sticks, coarsely chopped
2 leeks, coarsely chopped
3 large onions, quartered
3 large carrots, coarsely chopped
½ whole head garlic, unpeeled
3 kg/6.6 lbs raw free range chicken carcasses
5 liters/10.5 pts cold water
6 black peppercorns
6 coriander seeds

Bouquet garni:
1 large leek
1 celery stick
1 large sprig thyme
1 small bunch of parsley
1 bay leaf

Make the bouquet garni:  Tie the leeks, celery, thyme, parsley stalks and bay leaf together with kitchen string.

In a large pot, heat the olive oil and lightly fry the celery, leeks, onions and carrots.  Add  the raw chicken carcasses and cover with the water. Add the peppercorns, coriander seeds and bouquet garni, and bring to the boil, frequently skimming the brown foam that forms on the surface.

Add the bouquet garni to the pot, return to the boil and simmer gently for about 4½ hours, still skimming frequently but do not stir the stock.  Turn off the stove and let the stock sit for about ½ hour, then strain it by ladling the contents of the pan through a muslin-lined colander set over a large bowl. Try not to disturb the solids at the bottom, it will make the stock cloudy.  Cool the strained stock, remove all traces of fat, then chill or freeze in smaller containers until needed.  Discard the solids.

For a brown chicken stock simply brown the chicken carcasses or joints in the oven at 200°C/392°F for about 15-20 minutes, before adding the vegetables.

FISH STOCK
½ cup/125 ml olive oil
1 small leek, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 celery stick, finely chopped
1 small bulb fennel, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon/4 ml dried fennel seeds
2 kg/4.6 lbs fish bones, thoroughly rinsed and roughly chopped
1½ cups/375 ml dry white wine
¼ cup/60 ml  Noilly Prat
8 cups/2 liters cold water
2 sprigs each of parsley, thyme and tarragon
½ lemon, unpeeled
1 teaspoon/5 ml white peppercorns

In a large pot, lightly saute the leek, onion, celery, fennel and garlic in the oil.  Add the fish bones, wine, Noilly Prat and the dried herbs, and cook until the wine  has evaporated.  Add the water and bring to the boil.  Skim the surface frequently. Add the fresh herbs, lemon and peppercorns, and cook gently for 20 minutes.  Let the liquid settle for about 10 minutes (do not disturb the solids at the bottom) then strain through a muslin lined colander.  Leave to cool, then chill or freeze in smaller containers until needed. Discard the solids.

LAMB STOCK
5 kg/11 lbs lamb bones
2 pig’s trotters, cleaned thoroughly and split in half (ask your butcher to do it for you)
3 tablespoons/45 ml olive oil
2 medium onions, roughly chopped
4 carrots, roughly chopped
6 liters/12.5 pts water
5 medium size ripe tomatoes, cut in quarters

Preheat the oven to 200°C/392°F.
Place the lamb bones and the trotters on an oven tray and cook in a very hot oven until browned all over.  In a large stockpot, heat the oil and lightly fry the onions, carrots and celery, then add the lamb bones and trotters. Add the water, and bring to the boil.  Turn down the heat and simmer gently over low-medium heat, regularly skimming the brown foam that forms on the surface.  Simmer for 5 hours, then remove from the heat. Cool to room temperature, then strain, do not press down on the solids as this will cause the stock to become cloudy.  Cover and refrigerate until cold, then remove the fat from the  surface.  Refrigerate for up to 2 days or frozen in smaller containers for up to 3 months.

MUSHROOM STOCK
1 tablespoon/15 ml olive oil
1 large yellow onion, sliced
1 leek top, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
500 g/1 lb white mushrooms, sliced
30 g/1 oz dried shiitake mushrooms, whole
4 liters/17 cups cold water
6 sprigs parsley
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon/5 ml black peppercorns

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat, then add the onion, leek, and carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions and leeks have softened, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute.  Add the white mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes.
Add the water and bring to a boil, then add the shiitake mushrooms, parsley, thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to simmer for about an hour, skimming the surface constantly. Remove from the heat and let stand until cool (to infuse furthermore). Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a large enough container or several smaller ones. Discard the solids. Let cool furthermore then refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month.

PORK STOCK
5 kg/11 lbs pork bones
2 pig’s trotters, cleaned thoroughly and split in half
50 ml olive oil
2 medium onions, roughly chopped
4 carrots, roughly chopped
1 celery stalk, roughly chopped
1 cup/250 ml white wine
1 garlic bulb, cut in half
a few sprigs of thyme
1 bay leave

Preheat the oven to 200°C/392°F.
Place the pork bones and the trotters on an oven tray and cook in a very hot oven until browned all over.  In a large stockpot, heat the oil and lightly fry the onions, carrots and celery then add the pork bones and trotters. Deglaze with the white wine and as soon as all the wine has evaporator, add the water, and bring to the boil.  Add the garlic, the thyme and bay leave and turn down the heat.  Simmer gently over low-medium heat for 5 hours, regularly skimming the brown foam that forms on the surface. After 5 hours, turn off the heat and cool to room temperature, then strain.  Do not press down on the solids as this will cause the stock to become cloudy.  Cover and refrigerate until cold, then remove the fat from the  surface.  Refrigerate for up to 2 days or frozen in smaller containers for up to 3 months.

PRAWN STOCK
25 g/0.8 oz butter
1 clove garlic, crushed
reserved prawn shells of approximately 8 medium prawns
2 cups/500 ml fish stock
1 tablespoon/30 ml fresh parsley, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon/5 ml Noilly Prat
juice of ½ lemon

In a deep sauce pan over medium heat, melt the butter and fry the garlic for 10 seconds.  Add the prawn shells and fry until the shells turn pink, about 1 minute.  Add the fish stock and bring to the boil.  Add the parsley, Noilly Prat and lemon juice and bring to the boil again.  Boil for about 5 minutes, then remove from the heat.  Pour the stock through a colander lined with a muslin cloth. Leave to cool, then chill or freeze in smaller containers until needed.  Discard the solids.

VEGETABLE STOCK
3 onions, coarsely chopped
1 leek, coarsely chopped
2 celery sticks, coarsely chopped
6 carrots, coarsely chopped
1 whole head garlic, split in half
1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges
4 white peppercorns
4 pink peppercorns
½ bay leaf
4 star anise
8 cups/1 liter cold water
1 sprig each of tarragon, basil, coriander, thyme, parsley and chervil
½ cup/125 ml dry white wine

Place the prepared vegetables, the lemon wedges, peppercorns, bay leaf and star anise in a large pot.  Add the water and bring to the boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes.  Remove the pot from the heat and add the herbs and submerge it.  Set aside to cool and to allow the herbs to infuse the stock. Pass the stock through a double layer of muslin and leave to cool. Pour small amounts in suitable containers and freeze for up to 2-3 months.

SUGAR SYRUP
Combine 400 g/14 oz caster sugar, 1½ cup/310 ml cold water and 2 tablespoons/30 ml liquid glucose in a saucepan and heat gently, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon until the sugar has dissolved.  Skim off any scum that may rise to the surface. Then boil hard for 3 minutes.  Leave to cool down completely, pass through a sieve, and if not using immediately, store covered in the refrigerator for use later.

Chef’s note:  It is useful to have a supply of sugar syrup to make a quick sauce for a simple dessert as for Glazed fruit ice-cream cake,  Baked chocolate pudding, and the Baked cheesecake).

SUMAC
Sumac, from the berries of the sumac bush (vaguely related to Poison Ivy although not poisonous) are dried and in some instances you can buy the berries whole or already ground.  It is dark brick red in color and adds a delightful color and zing to food without overpowering it — subtle and refreshing.  Add it to scramble eggs, a vinaigrette, garlic mayonnaise, tomato salad, etc.  Try it with chicken, fish, butternut soup ….  the possibilities are endless.  Use your imagination.

TEST FOR DONENESS OF COOKED MEAT
To check whether the meat is cooked to your preference, do the following test:  Press the surface of the meat with the tip of your finger  —  if the meat feels soft, it is almost raw;  if the meat is firmer with some resilience then it is medium done;  and very firm, well done.

Otherwise, do the following test: bend your thumb to the inside of your hand to touch the tip of the index finger.  The fleshy area on the palm just under the thumb is soft and springy, representing the texture of rare cooked meat.  Now bend the thumb tighter to tough the tip of the middle finger, and the same fleshy area will be firmer — more like the texture  of medium rare meat. Touching the ring finger with the thumb, will give you a similar feeling to medium cooked meat.  And by touching the tip of the little finger, it will feel like well done meat.

TOMATO OIL
4 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 small clove of garlic, roughly chopped
1 sprig of thyme
4 tablespoons/60 ml extra virgin olive oil
a pinch of sugar, optional
Preparation method

In a food processor, blend the tomatoes and garlic and strain into a small pan. Bring to the boil and add the thyme. Turn the heat down and simmer until the liquid is reduced to half. Remove from the heat, strain the juice again and leave to cool.

Whisk the olive oil, season and add a pinch of sugar if necessary.

TOMATOES:  PEELING
To peel a tomato, with a sharp knife, cut a shallow X in the bottom end and put in a bowl. Pour boiling hot water over the tomatoes and leave for a few seconds until the skin around the cross starts to curl.  With a slotted spoon, remove the tomatoes from the hot water and plunge into ice water.  Then peel away the skin.

Don’t leave the tomato for too long in the hot water.  It will start to cook the flesh which will result in a furry texture.  If the skin does not come off easily, put  it back into the hot water for a few seconds.  This should do it.

TOMATO WATER
As used in Quail’s eggs and prawn aspic molds
Tomato water is an extremely interesting ingredient with its unexpected intense tomato flavor that can be used in a variety of ways.  It is also a great way to use excess quantities of ripe tomatoes and is very easy to make.

Take 2 kg/4.4 lbs very ripe tomatoes, chop roughly and scrape into a food processor.  Add 1 tablespoon/15 ml coarse salt and blend thoroughly.  Line a sieve with a double layer of cheesecloth and let it rest over a deep bowl.  Ladle the processed tomatoes into the cheesecloth and let it sit overnight in the refrigerator.  You might be tempted to push the tomato to force the juice through, but don’t!  Their own weight will be sufficient to extract the water.

Without squeezing the cloth, discard the contents.  Tomato water keeps, covered and chilled for 4 days, otherwise freeze for later use in small containers for up to 3 months.

TRUFFLE VINAIGRETTE
As used in recipe for Pasta spiral with a mushroom filling

½ cup/125 ml olive oil
3 shallots, finely chopped
1 teaspoon/5 ml fresh parsley, finely chopped
½ cup/125 ml white wine vinegar
2 teaspoons/10 l truffle oil
1 tablespoon/15 ml Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a bowl, mix all the ingredients together and store in a squeeze bottle in the refrigerator until needed.

VANILLA PASTE
Make your own beautiful vanilla flavors by simply putting a few whole vanilla beans in a tall bottle (taller than the length of the vanilla bean) and fill the bottle with vodka.  Close the bottle with a stopper and store in a cupboard or dark corner.  After about 6 weeks you can take a peep.  Pull out one of the beans, cut off the tip and squeeze out the tar-like gel, beautiful thick shiny vanilla paste — yum.  No, the paste certainly does not taste of vodka but the vodka is so strongly infused with the vanilla, that a quantity of that can definitely be used as vanilla extract.  Brilliant, don’t you think?

VANILLA
Although originally from Mexico, Madagascar and Tahiti are currently the world’s largest producers of vanilla. The pods are harvested while green and immature, at which stage they are odorless. Then they go through an extensive curing process before they are sold. To prevent rotting and to lock the aroma in the pods, the pods are dried. When 25-30% of the pods weight is moisture, they have completed the curing process and reached their maximum aromatic qualities.

Besides its use in food, the cosmetics industry also uses vanilla to make perfume, and in old medicinal literature, vanilla is described as an aphrodisiac and a remedy for fevers.

WHITE CHOCOLATE
As used in White chocolate and strawberry terrine

White chocolate is a combination of sugar, cocoa butter and milk solids. Although white chocolate has a texture similar to that of milk chocolate, it does not contain cocoa solids which is one of the ingredients of milk chocolate. The melting point of cocoa butter is high enough to keep white chocolate solid at room temperature, yet low enough to allow white chocolate to melt in the mouth. White chocolate needs to be heated gently.  Avoid white chocolate that’s made with vegetable oil instead of cocoa butter as it is made cheaper but not nearly as good.

YOGHURT CREAM
As used with Marinated tuna salad and Lamb shanks poached in spicy broth

5 tablespoons/75 ml cream
1 cup/250 ml low fat plain yogurt
1 teaspoon/5 ml lemon juice
salt and freshly ground pepper

Whisk the cream until soft peaks form, add the yogurt and whisk more.  Add the lemon, and salt and pepper, and set aside in a cool place to thicken.

Variations for flavor and garnish:
Add chopped chives, chopped parsley, paprika, or grated Parmesan cheese, and in the case of the Lamb shanks add harissa.

ZA’ATAR
Za’atar refers to wild thyme and marjoram that grow in the Lebanese and Middle Eastern wilderness. The Israeli authorities, however, have declared these herbs endangered species and banned picking in the wild, therefore other herbs are now being used for the za’atar mixture. The herbs are dried and mixed with spices and is frequently used in the Middle East and Mediterranean areas. There are many variations of ingredients for za’atar and each countery has a distinctive style, but the end result is sharp, warm and slightly pungent. It is sometimes mixed with olive oil and spread on bread rounds before baked, but it is also sprinkled over vegetables, salads, meatballs or kebabs.

Here is the recipe for the basic mixture. You might want it sharper, or more herby. Make it your own.

1 tablespoon/15 ml roasted sesame seeds
¼ cup/60 ml sumac
2 tablespoons/30 ml thyme, dried
2 tablespoons/30 ml marjoram, dried
2 tablespoons/30 ml oregano, dried
1 teaspoon/5 ml coarse salt

Grind the sesame seeds in a food processor or with mortar and pestle and add remaining ingredients and mix well. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for 3-6 months.