Fine Dining for YouI have had no formal chef’s training. Classical piano was my parents’ choice, and that took care of the first 20 years of my life. Journalism and radio followed (my own choices, this time), and these opened many doors for me into different countries, people, cultures — and, of course, foods. In a six week series on radio I used it as a platform for my love of food and shared lots of interesting recipes and food news with listeners.
My earliest memories of food come from the family kitchen at home; I can still remember the wonderful smells of the dishes my mother prepared. I became aware of the flavors of her creations at an early age. Some I enjoyed and preferred, while others depressed me with their lack of interesting flavors. My mother was a good cook, but not a gourmet, and sadly this often showed. What I did appreciate was that she always involved me in the preparation, sharing her knowledge of nutrition, flavor, color, and the harmonies of each plate she dished up. She was also a genius with leftovers and quick meals when unexpected guests arrived. This is one of the things that stands out in my mind, and it inspired me to create wonderful dishes from leftover foods myself.
I carried on with the tradition of carefully planning meals to combine nutrition, color and flavor, while at the same time offering variety and elegant presentation. In the process, I developed a passion for seeking out the best available products, adhering to each season’s offerings, and treating it with the respect it deserves, which eventually became part of my daily culinary life and travels. I did these things not because I wanted to become a chef, but to satisfy myself, family and friends with creations of gorgeous food and exciting flavors. All of which, I hope, is reflected in this blog.
Botarga is sun-dried salted Mullet roe, powdered. In Spain it is called Botarga, in Greece Avgotaraho, in France Boutargue and in Italy it is Bottarga. Whatever language you may use, you are sure of an exotic taste and a wonderful gourmet addition to pasta, fish and salads.
Edible flowers can be a boon for innovative cooks, not only do they add a fresh flourish of color they can also introduce unusual flavors to your dishes. For centuries roses were used for cooking and flavoring food, rose water was also put in fountains and baths to help people freshen up. Choose flowers you have grown yourself, or know to be safe for consumption. Flowers from a florist or nursery has probably been treated with pesticides or other chemicals and are certainly not safe for culinary use.
Serves 2
½ cup/125 ml crab meat (preferably lumps of the white meat)
1 tablespoon/15 ml mayonnaise
1 tablespoon/15 ml fresh cilantro, chopped
1 small shallot, diced finely
1-2 teaspoons/10 ml jalapeño, diced finely (optional)
1 teaspoon/5 ml lime zest
Juice from ½ a lime
sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste
a sprinkle of dashi granules or botarga (optional)
a selection of micro herbs
1 avocado, stone removed, cut lengthwise
olive oil for drizzling
tomato mayonnaise for drizzling (recipe follows)
Combine the lump crab meat, mayonnaise, cilantro, red onion, jalapeño (if using), lime zest, lime juice, salt and pepper, dashi or botarga (if using). Take one slice of avocado, spoon the crab mixture over plus the herbs of your choice and place another half of avocado on top. Garnish with more herbs, edible flowers and a drizzle of olive oil and tomato mayonnaise.
This dish is ideal as an appetizer, as part of an antipasto platter or baked in puff pastry as a dessert.
Figs are very versatile and are delicious in savory or sweet dishes. They are also seasonal and should be made use of as much as possible while they are available. See also Roast butternut and figs with pine nuts and goat’s cheese.
Serves 2
4 ripe figs, sliced into quarters halfway through
4 tablespoons/60 ml gorgonzola, or to your preference
2 slices prosciutto, each cut into two, lengthways
honey for drizzling
olive oil for drizzling
micro herbs
Preheat the oven grill. Place the four figs on a baking tray and lightly squeeze them to flare open. Push the gorgonzola lightly into the cavity and place under the preheated grill for 5 minutes, or until the gorgonzola is melted to your liking. Crush the strips of prosciutto to fit neatly on top of the cheese. Place back under the grill if you wish, otherwise just drizzle the honey and olive oil over and around the figs. Finally sprinkle the micro herbs over and serve.
Serve with figs, grapes and herb salad and whole-wheat bread
Make this silky and rich parfait at least a day in advance if possible so the flavors can fully develop and mature. Go to the extra trouble with the sieving by pushing the mixture through twice. This will guarantee the parfait’s smooth and delicate texture.
For the parfait:
1¾ cup milk
400 g/14 oz chicken livers, trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 sprig of thyme
3 tablespoons brandy
3 tablespoons port
3 tablespoons of Madeira
50 g/1.8 oz clarified butter*, melted
3 eggs
1 egg yolk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
300 g/10.5 oz butter, melted (to seal the parfait)
balsamic glaze for drizzling
For the garnish:
4 ripe figs
a few pitted grapes
micro herbs
whole wheat bread, thinly sliced
To make the parfait:
For the garnish:
To serve:
Dip a large sharp knife into hot water and carefully slice the parfait to the thickness desired. Plate each slice on suitable serving plates with the fig and grapes and the whole-wheat bread on the side. Drizzle with the balsamic glaze all round.
This salsa is excellent with the Deep fried pork chop crumbed and stuffed with brie
1 small red onion, diced
salt
juice of 1 lime
4 green jalapeño chiles, seeded and finely chopped (pickled jalapeño chiles can be used)
4 medium tomatoes, diced
1 cup fresh or frozen (thawed) corn kernels
1 cup fresh coriander, finely chopped
1 tablespoon/15 ml olive oil
1 large yellow onion, sliced
1 leek top, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
500 g/1 lb white mushrooms, sliced
30 g/1 oz dried shiitake mushrooms, whole
4 liters/17 cups cold water
6 sprigs parsley
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon/5 ml black peppercorns
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat, then add the onion, leek, and carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions and leeks have softened, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the white mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes.
Add the water and bring to a boil, then add the shiitake mushrooms, parsley, thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to simmer for about an hour, skimming the surface constantly. Remove from the heat and let stand until cool (to infuse furthermore). Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a large enough container or several smaller ones. Discard the solids. Let cool furthermore then refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month.
Trim the wings by cutting off the tips and drummette and use just the center part for the purpose of the confit. Use the tips for making stock and for the drummettes see Chicken and rosewater biryani.
The marinade:
2 teaspoons five spice powder
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon Sechuan pepper
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine
12 chicken wings
4 cups duck fat, melted
The mushrooms:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 cups mixed wild mushrooms, wiped and sliced
⅔ cup chicken stock
½ cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon parsley, freshly chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
The Vol-au-vent:
300 g/10.6 oz puff pastry
2 eggs
The garnish:
1 cup of shimej mushrooms
pea tendrils or any other fine herbs
The dressing:
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
½ teaspoon honey (or to taste)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
a dash of soy sauce
½ teaspoons ginger, finely grated
½ teaspoons garlic powder
toasted sesame seeds to sprinkle
The mushrooms:
The wings:
The Vol-au-vent:
To make the dressing:
Whisk all the ingredients except the sesame seeds together and set aside until ready to serve.
To finish the Vaul-au-vent:
The Za’atar plant, originally called “hyssop”, is a herbaceous perennial native to the Middle East. Strongly aromatic, pungent and delicious. But since the Israeli authorities have declared the herb and endangered species and banned picking in the wild, those who were used to using this herb freely has come to terms with making their own blend of a few herbs and spices to imitate the same flavor. I don’t know the real flavor of the authentic mix but I am so delighted to have found a recipe that is so satisfactory — sharp, warm and slightly pungent. Sprinkle it over pita bread with olive oil, or stir into Goat’s cheese mousse (to spread over freshly baked bread). Use this mixture as a dry rub for fish or chicken or add to marinades for roasted vegetables. Mix it into a party dip with fresh garlic, feta cheese and olive oil…
1 tablespoon/15 ml roasted sesame seeds
1 tablespoon/15 ml cumin
¼ cup/60 ml sumac
2 tablespoons/30 ml dried thyme
2 tablespoons/30 ml dried marjoram
2 tablespoons/30 ml dried oregano
1 teaspoon/5 ml coarse salt
Lightly toast your cumin and sesame seeds in a heavy based frying pan. Tip all of the ingredients into a spice blender and work into a fine powder. Store in an airtight container in a cool place away from strong light.
Learning about the cuisine of other cultures and the fusion of flavors happening as a result of immigrants bringing their traditional cooking methods, herbs and family favorites into your country, has made cooking a very interesting and delicious hobby. This dish (inspired by fusion food served in Jerusalem) is a delightful and surprising result. Yet another version of comfort food you can add to your repertoire.
360 h/12.7 oz Basmati rice
The lamb:
2 tablespoons/30 ml olive oil
12 shallots, finely sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
350 g/12 oz lamb mince
2 cups/500 ml lamb stock
2 tablespoons/30 ml sumac (availalable at well stocked supermarkets)
1 tablespoon/15 ml za’atar (available in shops that specialise in Middle Eastern spices or make you own)
1 tablespoon/15 ml cumin
2 tablespoons/30 ml pine nuts
salt and freshly ground black pepper
The tomatoes:
2 tablespoons/30 ml olive oil
24 cherry tomatoes
1 teaspoon/5 ml coarse sea salt
sprinkle of sugar
1 teaspoon/5 ml balsamic vinegar
The garnish:
4 fresh eggs
plain thick Greek yogurt
bunch coriander leaves
This dish is a bit daunting if you are entertaining, because it has to be done the last minute. But if you are well organized and have done all the preparations, it should be fine. The seafood preparation can be done the previous day as well as all the measuring of the ingredients, and kept covered and refrigerated.
The fish and seafood:
25 g/0.9 oz butter
2 tablespoons/30 ml olive oil
120 g/4 oz firm white fish, skinned
120 g/4 oz prawns,
120 g/4 oz squid with tentacles
2 tablespoons/30 ml extra-virgin olive oil
½ onion, thinly sliced into rings
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon/5 ml dried red chile flakes
4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained, rinsed and dried
1 kg/2 lbs black mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded
1 cup/250 ml dry white wine
2 tablespoons/30 ml salted capers, rinsed and drained
1 bunch Italian parsley leaves, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
The seafood sauce:
25 g butter
2 garlic cloves
reserved prawn shells
trimmings of squid and fish
1 cup/250 ml white wine
4 cups/1 ℓ fish stock, heated
1 tablespoon/15 ml tomato paste
1 teaspoon/5 ml Pernod
1 tablespoon/15 ml agar-agar, mixed with 4 tablespoons/60 ml cold water
1 cup/250 ml double cream
2 tablespoons/30 ml tarragon leaves
For the fish, prawns and squid, cut the fish into 3 x 3 cm/1 x 1 in pieces, and peel and devein the prawns (reserving the shells for later use). Remove the tentacles from the squid body (remove the beak from the tentacles, reserving all the trimmings), and cut the squid into rings about 1 cm/0.4 in wide. In a big frying pan, heat the olive oil and butter and sauté the fish, prawns, squid and tentacles in batches, seasoning adequately as you go along, being careful at the same time not to overcook. Set aside and keep warm. Keep the saucepan with pan juices to make the sauce later.
Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, heat the olive oil and lightly saute the red onion, garlic and chile flakes. Saute until fragrant, then add the anchovies and cook until the anchovies have disintegrated. Add the mussels and white wine, and cover quickly, so the steam cooks the mussels. Shake the pot after 1 minute, and again after 2 more minutes. Check the mussels, if they are open and plump, they are cooked. Check the seasoning, then stir in the parsley. Set aside and keep warm.
For the seafood sauce: use the saucepan the seafood was cooked in and heat to medium. Add the butter add the garlic. Saute for a few seconds then add the prawn shells and all the other trimmings. Cook for about 3 minutes then add the wine. Reduce until about a third is left then add the heated fish stock. Bring to the boil and add the tomato paste and Pernod. Cook until the liquid has reduced by about one third then check the seasoning. Stir in the dissolved agar-agar little by little until you reach the desired consistency which should be like pouring cream. Strain the sauce and keep warm. Just before serving, roughly chop the tarragon then mix into the seafood sauce.
To serve:
On a large warmed serving plate, arrange the fish, prawns, squid and mussels and pour the mussel juice over. Serve the Seafood sauce separately.
Fine Dining for You 