Author: STELLA

I have had no formal chef’s training. Classical piano was my parents’ choice, and that took care of the first 20 years of my life. Journalism and radio followed (my own choices, this time), and these opened many doors for me into different countries, people, cultures — and, of course, foods. In a six week series on radio I used it as a platform for my love of food and shared lots of interesting recipes and food news with listeners.
My earliest memories of food come from the family kitchen at home; I can still remember the wonderful smells of the dishes my mother prepared. I became aware of the flavors of her creations at an early age. Some I enjoyed and preferred, while others depressed me with their lack of interesting flavors. My mother was a good cook, but not a gourmet, and sadly this often showed. What I did appreciate was that she always involved me in the preparation, sharing her knowledge of nutrition, flavor, color, and the harmonies of each plate she dished up. She was also a genius with leftovers and quick meals when unexpected guests arrived. This is one of the things that stands out in my mind, and it inspired me to create wonderful dishes from leftover foods myself.

I carried on with the tradition of carefully planning meals to combine nutrition, color and flavor, while at the same time offering variety and elegant presentation. In the process, I developed a passion for seeking out the best available products, adhering to each season’s offerings, and treating it with the respect it deserves, which eventually became part of my daily culinary life and travels. I did these things not because I wanted to become a chef, but to satisfy myself, family and friends with creations of gorgeous food and exciting flavors. All of which, I hope, is reflected in this blog.

Categories
METHODS STARTERS/SIDES

Roasting and preparing red peppers for antipasto


ROASTING OF RED PEPPERS FOR ANTIPASTO

To roast peppers in the oven (this is my preferred method of roasting peppers), line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and have one or two strong plastic bags ready.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F.  Arrange the peppers on the baking sheet on their sides and roast for 20 minutes, then turn them over and bake for another 20 minutes or until the skins are charred and soft, and the peppers slightly collapsed.  Remove the baking sheet from the oven and with tongs load the peppers into the plastic bags — not more than 4 in a bag — and tie a knot to make it airtight.  This will steam the peppers and will make the peeling of the skin much easier.  Leave to steam for about 15 minutes.

Slice the peppers vertically from top to bottom and open them up. Remove the stems from the top of the peppers and scrape the seeds and ribs from the inside.  Wipe the rest of the seeds off with paper towel. Flip the peppers over to reveal the skin side, then pull off the charred skin. If you want a more charred flavor, you can leave a few small blackened bits on the skin.

Do not seed and skin the pepper under running water because the pepper will loose some of its charred flavor in the process.

Once you’ve peeled and seeded your peppers, you’ll end up with soft, sweet, tasty pepper flesh.

To marinate the roasted peppers for use in Antipasto, you will need:
3 red peppers, roasted, peeled and deseeded
1 or 2 cloves fresh garlic, minced
2 tablespoons/30 ml good quality extra virgin olive oil
coarse sea salt
one or two sprinkles of dried oregano (optional)

  • After you have peeled the peppers, tear the peppers into strips, and place in a bowl.
  • Add the garlic, extra virgin olive oil, salt and oregano (if using) and mix well.
  • Make this a few hours before you serve it so the flavors have time to develop.
  • Use as part of the selection on an antipasto platter, as a side dish, on crostini, in a sandwich or however you choose.
  • Keep any leftover pepper in the fridge for up to 3 or 4 days.
Categories
METHODS SALADS/VINAIGRETTES

Pickled pearl onions


PICKLED PEARL ONIONS

 

 

 

 

 

 

16 white pearl onions, root ends trimmed and scored with an X
½ cup/125 ml water
½ cup/125 ml red wine vinegar
½ cup/125 ml sugar
4 teaspoons/20 ml mustard seeds
½ teaspoon/3 ml coriander seeds
½ teaspoon/3 ml black peppercorns

Bring a medium saucepan of boiling salted water to a boil, add the pearl onions and cook until just tender, about 8 minutes. Drain, rinse in ice water and drain again. Transfer the onions to a glass bowl.

Meanwhile, in another medium saucepan, add the rest of the ingredients and bring to a boil and boil until the sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Pour the liquid over the onions and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days. Drain before serving.

 

 

Categories
METHODS STARTERS/SIDES

Marinated mushrooms Italian style


MARINATED MUSHROOMS.jpg

⅔ cup/156 ml extra virgin olive oil
½ cup/125 ml water
1 bay leaf
juice of 2 lemons or 3 tablespoons/45 ml red wine vinegar
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 large shallot, finely chopped
6 whole peppercorns
good pinch sea salt
2 teaspoons/10 ml each basil and oregano, chopped
pinch of rosemary, finely chopped
pinch of red hot pepper flakes
450 g/1 lb small mushrooms, cleaned

  • Mix together all the ingredients except the mushrooms in a large stainless steel saucepan.
  • Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat, cover the pan and simmer for 15 minutes.
  • Strain and return to a simmer over low heat.
  • Drop the mushrooms into the simmering marinade, turning them over from time to time, for about 2-4 minutes (depending on mushroom size). If the mushrooms are small enough, remove from the heat after just 1 minute.
  • Remove the pan from the heat and allow to stand, uncovered, while the mushrooms cool in the marinade.
  • After the mushrooms have marinated for a day or two, and the marinade has mellowed, taste and add fresh herbs for an extra layer of flavor if you wish.
  • Serve at room temperature or refrigerate in a plastic container. Refrigerator for up to 3 days.

 

 

 

Categories
MAIN COURSE

Salmon and prawns poached in a seafood broth


The stock:
1/3 cup/80 ml olive oil
2 tablespoons/30 ml lightly smoked bacon, finely chopped
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 leek, roughly chopped
2 celery stalks, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons/30 ml fresh fennel, finely sliced or 1 tablespoon/15 ml fennel seeds
6 cloves garlic, chopped
¼ cup/60 ml white wine
1 tablespoon/15 ml orange zest
8 ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 tablespoon/15 ml tomato paste
1 medium-hot red chili, seeded and chopped

If you want the broth spicier, add powdered chilli right at the end.

1 teaspoon/5 ml saffron strands, soaked in cold water
1 sprig of thyme
4 cups/1 liter fish stock, heated
15 g/½ oz butter

2 tablespoons/30 ml olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
reserved shells of prawns
1 teaspoon/5 ml Pernod
salt and freshly ground black pepper

The seafood:
4 tablespoons/60 ml olive oil
4 x 250 g/4 x 8.8 oz firm white fish fillets, on the bone, skin removed
8 large prawns, shelled and de-veined, reserve shells for stock
3 ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded and diced
1 tablespoon/15 ml cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons/15 ml cold water (optional)

The aïoli (garlic mayonnaise):
4 egg yolks (See the Glossary on the use of excess egg whites.)
½ teaspoon/3 ml salt
3 cloves garlic (more if you wish)
2 teaspoons/10 ml lemon juice
2 cup/500 ml groundnut oil

The garnish:
2 tablespoons/30 ml fresh coriander, finely chopped
2 tablespoons/30 ml dill, finely chopped
crusty white bread, thinly sliced and lightly toasted

  • In a large saucepan, heat the oil and sauté the onions, bacon, leeks, celery, fresh fennel or fennel seeds and garlic until soft. Add the wine and boil until all the alcohol has evaporated, then add the orange zest, tomatoes, tomato paste, chili, saffron and soaking liquid, thyme and fish stock and bring to the boil. Boil for 15 minutes, then remove from the heat and set aside.
  • In a separate frying pan, heat the butter and olive oil and sauté the garlic, shells of the prawns until golden and aromatic. Deglaze the pan with the Pernod, then add the contents of the pan to the prepared stock and set aside until ready to poach the fish and prawns.
  • Strain the prepared stock thoroughly into a saucepan big enough for the fish, prawns and broth, and and discard the solids. Bring to a gentle simmer, then add the diced tomatoes and, if desired, thicken slightly with the cornstarch.

Use the cornstarch slush only if you find the stock too watery. But only add a little at a time to make sure that the stock does not end up too thick.

  • Let it simmer for a few minutes longer until slightly thickened, then add the fish to the simmering broth.
  • Poach for about 4 minutes, then carefully turn the fish over, add the prawns and poach 2 minutes more or until you are satisfied that the prawns are cooked. The fish should be opaque and cooked through but flake easily. Check the seasoning, then turn off the heat and prepare to serve.
  • For the aïoli, blend together the egg yolks, salt, garlic and lemon juice in a food processor. Add the oil in a thin steady stream while the machine keeps running. Continue until all the oil is incorporated. Check the seasoning.

This recipe contains raw eggs and is not suitable for pregnant women, the elderly or very young children. If you feel uneasy using raw egg yolks, see the recipe for Mayonnaise made with cooked egg.

To serve:
Lift the fish from the broth and place into deep pre-heated bowls. Carefully pour the broth around the fish, add two prawns to each dish, and sprinkle the fresh coriander and dill over. Serve the crusty bread and small bowls filled with the aïoli on the side.

Categories
METHODS SALADS/VINAIGRETTES

Mayonnaise made with cooked egg


MAYONNAISE

2 egg yolks
1 teaspoons/10 ml (or more if you prefer) lemon juice
2 tablespoons/30 ml water
½ teaspoon/3 ml (or more if you prefer) mustard
salt to taste
white pepper finely ground
½ cup/125 ml peanut oil (or other flavorless oil)
½ cup/125 ml olive oil

  • Have ready a big bowl with icewater.
  • In a small saucepan, heat the egg yolks, water and lemon juice, stirring continuously. As soon as it starts to thicken, take off the heat.
  • Place the saucepan in the cold water to avoid stop further cooking of the mixture. Whisk the mixture well and keep aside to cool, then add the mustard powder, salt and pepper and beat with an electric beater.
  • Slowly drizzle first the peanut oil while continuing to beating then the olive oil. (Drizzling the oil slowly is of great importance or else the mixture will curdle.)
  • Beat the mixture till you finish the last drop of oil. Taste the mayonnaise to see if it is balanced. Personally, I prefer to have a sweeter mayonnaise. (You can add more salt or mustard or lemon juice to suit your taste.)
  • Store covered in the refrigerator.
Categories
GLOSSARY / METHODS

Black olive tapenade


BLACK OLIVES.jpg

175 g/1 cup Kalamata olives, pitted
4 anchovy fillets, drained and coarsely chopped
15 ml/1 tablespoon capers, drained
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
60 ml/¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

In the bowl of a food processor place the olives, anchovy fillets, capers and garlic and process until finely chopped.

This can also be done in a mortal and pestle

With the motor running, add the oil in a thin, steady stream until a smooth paste has formed.
Seal in an airtight container and pour over extra oil to cover the tapenade surface to prevent oxidation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Categories
FRITTERS/BREADS

FOCACCIA


400 ml/1¾ cups warm water
7 g/2¼ teaspoon/1 packet active dry yeast
15 ml/1 tablespoon sugar
700 g/5 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for kneading
10 ml/2 teaspoons garlic powder (optional)
10 ml/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus
125 ml/½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
coarse sea salt, for sprinkling

  • Combine the warm water, yeast and sugar in a small bowl and leave in a warm place until the yeast is foaming, at least 15 minutes.
  • In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour, garlic powder (if using) and salt, then pour in the olive oil and the yeast mixture and mix on low speed.
  • Once the dough has come together, continue to knead for 10 minutes on a medium speed until it becomes smooth and soft. Remove the dough and shape into a ball.
  • Lightly oil the bowl and return the dough to the bowl.  Cover with plastic wrap and let stand for 1 hour.
  • Sprinkle the base of 2 18 x 28 cm/7 x 11 in shallow baking trays with polenta or semolina.
  • Knead the dough again for about 3 minutes then divide into two portions.  Flatten each portion onto a baking tray, pulling and stretching to fit into the trays.
  • Let rest for 10 minutes, then make dents in the dough with your fingertips, drizzle some olive oil over and sprinkle rough sea salt over.
  • Leave to prove for another hour.
  • Meanwhile preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F.  Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the top of the focaccia is golden brown.
  • Remove from the oven and let it rest before serving it warm.

Variations: Sprinkle with rosemary or Parmesan cheese, olives or sundried tomatoes be fore putting in the oven.

Categories
STARTERS/SIDES

ANTIPASTO PLATTERS


ANTIPASTA1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In English, it is called the appetizer course, the French call it the hors d’oeuvre and in Italy, it’s called the antipasto — an exciting way to announce the start of a glorious feast. In true Italian tradition, antipasti are selected for color, flavor, texture and how well the different components work together.  When you start preparing the dish, it truly is a blank canvas and with the help of a few marinated and pickled vegetables, fresh seasonal fruit and vegetables, cured meats, olives, cheese, nuts, and bread of your choice, all beautifully arranged … how can you not create a masterpiece?

Omit the meat, add a few more nuts, and you have a perfect vegetarian starter.

SEARED VENISON ANTIPASTO PLATTER 2

Here are the choices:
breadsticks or focaccia cut into bite size pieces
basil pesto
black olive tapenade 
stuffed green olives
Kalamata olives
Provolone cheese
Camembert cheese
Fontina
Parmesan crisps
Feta
fresh figs
melon
bunches of grapes
cherry tomatoes
spring onions
marinated mushrooms
pickled pearl onions
marinated artichoke hearts (from your supermarket or deli)
sun-dried tomatoes
roasted red peppers
roasted aubergine
Spanakopita
quail eggs

How to boil a quail egg to medium soft: Have ready a bowl of iced water. In a small saucepan, bring some water to a boil, enough to cover the quail’s eggs. (If one of the eggs just happens to be cracked, rub the cracked area with lemon juice or vinegar and lower the egg very gently into the water.) Boil the eggs for 1 minute, remove the pan from the heat and leave in the hot water for 30 seconds. Transfer the eggs to the reserved iced water and leave for 1 minute, then remove and peel.

thinly sliced salami
Prosciutto
anchovy fillets (drained)
nuts (try the Rosemary spiced mixed nuts)

Some basic rules:

  • With any antipasto platter, the quantity of each food item on the platter is a personal choice and is dependent on the number of guests.
  • Use your best judgment to create a balanced and interesting platter.
  • One large tray makes a nice visual impact, but one or more smaller plates will also work.
  • Prepare all the different elements of your platter and refrigerate separate in sealed containers. Assemble the plate just before serving.  Everything will look fresh and crispy.
  • Roll or fold sliced meats for a nice presentation.
  • Cut or shave pieces of cheese.
  • Keep sea salt and a pepper grinder handy for seasoning.
  • Have extra-virgin olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar, or a special vinaigrette ready for drizzling.
  • Consider using small bowls placed on the tray for marinated condiments, nuts or olives.
  • Place bread away from moist veggies and pickles.

Use your imagination and flair to create a beautiful platter of delicious nibbles.

Categories
SOUPS/SAUCES/CONDIMENTS

Ravioli filled with creamy chicken mousse


Serve with a drizzle of roast almond dressing and micro herbs scattered over the top

This is a very romantic dish, fit for part of dinner to impress a seriously love one.

 

RAVIOLO WITH CHICKEN MOUSE AND YOLK

For the filling:
100 g/3.5 oz chicken mousse (recipe follows)
1 clove garlic, minced
50 g/1.7 oz ricotta (make your own)
125 ml/½ cup soft goats cheese
¼ cup/60 ml Parmesan cheese, finely grated
1 tablespoon/15 ml pine nuts, toasted and roughly chopped
4 fresh quail egg yolks extra Parmesan cheese for serving
4 leaves basil micro herbs

The ravioli:
See recipe for fresh pasta
1 egg plus
1 tablespoon/15 ml of water to prepare the egg wash

The dressing:
25 g/1 oz toasted almonds, ground
¼ cup/60 ml olive oil
1 tablespoon/15 ml lemon juice
2 teaspoons/10 ml grainy mustard pinch of sugar

The filling:
 Prepare the chicken mousse (recipe follows) and keep refrigerated until ready to use. Mix the garlic, ricotta, goats cheese and Parmesan cheese and add to the chicken mousse. Stir through the pine nuts and put the whole mixture in a piping bag. Keep refrigerated until ready to use.

The almond dressing:
Mix all the ingredients together and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

The ravioli:

  • Roll out the pasta dough to the thinnest setting of your pasta machine. Cut 8 circles of 150 ml/6 in diameter, cover 4 of the circles with plastic wrap and set aside.
  • For the other four circles, pipe on each one the chicken mousse mixture about 12 ml/½ in from the edge creating a hollow centre.
  • Slip an egg yolk into each center, then brush the rim with the egg wash. Place a second disc from the ones kept aside, over the filling and carefully press the edges together, working all round making sure to exclude any air before the final seal. (You might have to stretch the dough ever so slightly).
Make sure that you handle each ravioli with the greatest care to preserve your delicate egg yolk.
  • Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat and add 2 tablespoons/30 ml salt.
  • Lower the heat to a simmer and then, using a wide flat spatula, lower each raviolo into the water — depending on the size of your saucepan, cook all four at the same time.
  • Cook them for about 2 minutes then gently remove from the water, let them drain properly and place on a lightly oiled surface.

To serve: Place a raviolo in the center of each plate, drizzle the almond dressing over and scatter some micro herbs over and serve immediately.

The chicken mousse:
225 g/8 oz chicken breast, cut into small pieces
1 teaspoon/5 ml salt
1 egg white
¾ cup/200 ml thickened cream

  • Start the chicken mousse, making sure that all the ingredients using are very cold.
  • Pulse the chicken and salt in a food processor until finely chopped.
  • Add the egg white and process more until well combined.
  • Keep the motor running and slowly pour in cream and process until smooth.
  • Transfer the mixture to a bowl and refrigerate until ready to use.
Categories
GLOSSARY / METHODS

SUMAC


Sumac, from the berries of the sumac bush (vaguely related to Poison Ivy although not poisonous) are dried and in some instances you can buy the berries whole or already ground.  It is dark brick red in color and adds a delightful color and zing to food without overpowering it — subtle and refreshing.  Add it to scramble eggs, a vinaigrette, garlic mayonnaise, tomato salad, etc.  Try it with chicken, fish, butternut soup ….  the possibilities are endless.  Use your imagination.