Author: STELLA

I have had no formal chef’s training. Classical piano was my parents’ choice, and that took care of the first 20 years of my life. Journalism and radio followed (my own choices, this time), and these opened many doors for me into different countries, people, cultures — and, of course, foods. In a six week series on radio I used it as a platform for my love of food and shared lots of interesting recipes and food news with listeners.
My earliest memories of food come from the family kitchen at home; I can still remember the wonderful smells of the dishes my mother prepared. I became aware of the flavors of her creations at an early age. Some I enjoyed and preferred, while others depressed me with their lack of interesting flavors. My mother was a good cook, but not a gourmet, and sadly this often showed. What I did appreciate was that she always involved me in the preparation, sharing her knowledge of nutrition, flavor, color, and the harmonies of each plate she dished up. She was also a genius with leftovers and quick meals when unexpected guests arrived. This is one of the things that stands out in my mind, and it inspired me to create wonderful dishes from leftover foods myself.

I carried on with the tradition of carefully planning meals to combine nutrition, color and flavor, while at the same time offering variety and elegant presentation. In the process, I developed a passion for seeking out the best available products, adhering to each season’s offerings, and treating it with the respect it deserves, which eventually became part of my daily culinary life and travels. I did these things not because I wanted to become a chef, but to satisfy myself, family and friends with creations of gorgeous food and exciting flavors. All of which, I hope, is reflected in this blog.

Categories
SOUPS/SAUCES/CONDIMENTS

Baked aubergine and mushroom stacks with tomato and balsamic vinegar


Serves 4

BAKED AUBERGINE AND MUSHROOM STACKS

The aubergine stacks:
2 tablespoons/30 ml olive oil
2-3 large aubergines, sliced across in 2 cm/0.8 in wide slices (you
should have 16 slices)
8 large black mushrooms, wiped clean
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons/60 ml soft goat’s cheese
4 slices of brie, medium flavored
8 basil leaves

The tomato sauce
1 tablespoon/15 ml olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
3 large very ripe tomatoes, skinned and deseeded, roughly chopped
3 sprigs fresh rosemary, finely chopped
few sprigs of fresh thyme, leaves picked
salt and freshly ground black pepper
vegetable stock (optional), if needed

The dressing:
3 tablespoons/45 ml balsamic vinegar (not an expensive grade)
2 tablespoons/30 ml caster sugar
2 tablespoons/30 l water
zest of one lemon, finely chopped
2 tablespoons/30 ml chives, finely sliced

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and fry the aubergine slices until golden brown on both sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. In the same pan, fry the mushrooms, until they have released all their moisture. Remove from the heat and set aside.

For the tomatoes, heat the olive oil and over medium heat, fry the onion and garlic for about 1 minute. Turn up the heat, add the tomato and cook for about 10 minutes – nothing more. It must still retain the freshness. Add the herbs and season well. Reserve about 1 cup/250 ml for drizzling at the end.

For the dressing, bring the balsamic vinegar and sugar to the boil and remove from the heat immediately. (By the time you need to use the balsamic vinegar it might have turned too sticky to use. Just add a little water and reheat, stirring well.) Add the lemon zest and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 220°C/422°F.

To assemble:
In a heatproof dish make four “towers” starting at the bottom with one layer of aubergine, followed by a mushroom, a spoon full of tomato sauce and a layer of the soft goat’s cheese crumbled. Repeat this procedure until all the vegetables have been used, finishing with tomato. Put a slice of brie on top, scatter the crumb mixture over and drizzle a little bit of olive oil over. Put in the oven for about 10 minutes or until the brie starts bubbling. Remove from the oven and put a ”tower” on each plate. Drizzle the reserved tomato sauce around and a swirl of the balsamic vinegar glaze. Sprinkle the chopped chives and spring onions around, and serve immediately. If you have sufficient size ovenproof dishes, each “tower” can be baked and served individually.

Categories
MAIN COURSE

Duck breast fritters with Basmati rice and roast peaches


If you wish to serve another vegetable,  cabbage, lightly poached in butter and seasoned with nutmeg, goes very well with this dish.

Serves 4

DUCK BREAST FRITTERS

The duck:
4 free-range duck breasts
2 tablespoons/30 ml shoa xing rice wine (available at Asian supermarkets)
1 tablespoon/15 ml szechuan pepper, ground (available at Asian supermarkets)
1 clove garlic, minced
salt
flour for sprinkling
2 free-range eggs, whisked
Japanese breadcrumbs (Panko breadcrumbs)
oil for deep-frying

The peaches:
1 tablespoon/15 ml sugar
1 tablespoon/15 ml butter
4 ripe peaches, stoned and quartered (use canned peaches if fresh ones are unavailable but cut down on the sugar)
2 cloves, ground
2 tablespoons/30 ml Peach Schnapps

The rice:
450 g/15.8 oz Basmati rice
4 cups/1 liter chicken stock
75 g/2.6 oz butter
salt

The garnish:
2 tablespoons/30 ml orange zest, grated
2 tablespoons/30 ml fresh chives, chopped

Score the breasts on the fat side with 2 cm/0.8 in space between each cut. Mix the rice wine, pepper, garlic and salt and rub onto the breasts on both sides. Set aside in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

When ready to cook, wipe most of the marinade of the breasts, heat a non-stick pan and sear the breasts on the fat side only, until crispy (about 3 minutes). Remove the breasts from the pan and set aside to cool. Store the rendered fat in a container for another time to fry potatoes, etc.

When the meat has rested for at least ½ hour (it will be quite raw still), slice the meat into 4 thick slices across. Place each slice of breast between two pieces of cling film and with a mallet, flatten the meat until about 15 mm/1 in) thick.

Sprinkle each slice with flour, then dip it in the egg and finally coat with the breadcrumbs. Heat the oil in a large saucepan,  fry the crumbed slices in the hot oil until crispy — not longer than 30 seconds on each side. Remove from the pan and let drain on kitchen paper.

Meanwhile, in a saucepan, melt the sugar and butter and saute the peach quarters in it for about 1 minute on each side, de-glaze with the schnapps, sprinkle over the ground cloves and let simmer for another 2 minutes or until just tender.

Add the rice, salt and chicken stock to a medium saucepan. Bring to the boil, lower the heat, then cover with a tightly-fitting lid. Cook for 15-20 minutes then turn off the heat and leave the rice to stand, still covered, until about 5 minutes before serving. When ready to serve,add the butter and fluff up the rice with a fork.

To serve:
On each heated serving plate, spoon some rice and stack four duck breast fritters on top.  Divide the peaches and place around the rice and drizzle some of the peach juices over.

Categories
MAIN COURSE

Nachos with tomato salsa, quacomole and sour cream


Nachos (believed to have originated in Mexico) is regarded as a snack and generally consists of fried tortilla chips topped with a layer of refried beans, various meats, jalapeño and a layer of shredded cheese.  There are many variations and this recipe is my own variation.  I hope you enjoy it.
LINE

Serves 4 Nachos

The beans:
1 cup/250 ml black eye beans, soaked in water overnight

The meat:
125 g/4.5 oz bacon, finely diced
500 g/1 lb ground lamb
2 garlic cloves
1 large onion, finely sliced
1 tablespoons/15 ml cumin, ground
2 cups/500 ml lamb stock (or chicken stock), heated
4 pickled jalapeno, seeds removed and finely sliced salt and freshly ground black pepper

The tomato salsa:
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeds removed, and chopped
1 cup/250 ml spring onions, finely sliced
1 tablespoon/15 ml olive oil
1 teaspoon/5 ml lemon juice
pinch of sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper

The sour cream:
1 cup/250 ml cream
2 cups/500 ml natural yoghurt
2 tablespoons/30 ml lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper

The quacomole:
2 ripe avocados, roughly mashed with a fork
1 pickled jalapeño, seeds removed if required, finely chopped
3 tablespoons/45 ml onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon/15 ml tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon/15 ml cilantro
½ tablespoon/7 ml lime juice
a few drops of Tobasco sauce
salt and freshly ground black pepper

The toppings:
1 small bunch cilantro
24 corn tortillas
250 g/½ lb cheddar cheese, grated
250 g/½ lb hard mozzarella cheese, grated

In a saucepan, cover the soaked and drained black eye beans with cold water and bring to the boil.  Boil until tender (about 40 minutes), drain and add salt to taste.   Cover the saucepan and keep warm.

In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil until very hot.  Add the bacon and cook for a minute or so, then add the mince and stir to break up the lumps.  Fry until it started to get a good caramelized color, then add the garlic, onion, cumin, salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Cook for about 5 minutes, then add the hot lamb stock and cook until the sauce starts to thicken. Stir through the jalapeño and the black eye beans, cover the pan and turn off the heat.

For the tomato salsa, mix all the ingredients in a bowl, cover and refrigerate until needed.

For the sour cream, whisk the cream until slightly thickened, then add the rest of the ingredients and mix well.  Cover and refrigerate until needed.

For the quacomole, mix all the ingredients just before serving, cover and refrigerate until needed.

Heat the oven to very hot and arrange the corn tortillas on a big baking plate. Heat until the color changes slightly, then remove from the oven, cool slightly and break up in the required sizes.  Alternatively, if available, use good quality bought corn chips.

To serve: Use a big shallow baking dish and spread half the lamb mixture on the bottom, followed by a layer of chips.  Scatter half the cheddar and mozzarella around and half the cilantro.  Repeat the layer and finish with the cheese.  Do not add the rest of the cilantro now.  Place the baking dish under the grill and leave until the cheese is melted and bubbling.  Remove from the oven and sprinkle the rest of the cilantro over.  Serve with the tomato salsa scattered over and a generous drizzle of the sour cream.  Serve the quacomole on the side as well as the rest of the sour cream for guests to add as they wish.  Extra tortilla chips will certainly be appreciated.

Categories
METHODS

The “sous-vide” (waterbath) method of cooking


The “Sous-Vide” way of cooking, as described in the recipe for Slow poached marinated pork belly (”sous vide”- style) with Mushroom Basmati rice, is a method in which you seal raw and marinated food in a food grade plastic bag and then cook it at a low temperature in a water bath.  The food, and I am referring mainly to meat, i.e. tough cuts of meat, comes out beautifully succulent and incredibly tender after a few hours.  If, as a home cook, you want to experiment with this method of cooking, remember it is not really necessary to invest in expensive equipment.  You need a reliable oven, a good quality ovenproof dish with a lid (I use a cast iron saucepan) that is big enough to hold the whole piece of meat instead of a temperature controlled water bath, a vacuum packing machine and patience.  Compared to other cooking methods, the food cannot dry out and the flavor intensifies because all the seasoning and juices stay in and around the food.

 The basic steps I follow i.e. for cooking pork belly, is to neatly trim the meat, then marinate it in a mixture of spices and stock or wine for a few hours, preferably overnight.  When ready, transfer the marinated meat with the marinade to a food grade plastic bag that will withstand the heat, and seal it in a vacuum packing machine.  If you do not possess a vacuum packing machine, do not despair.  Try to get all the air out of the pouch after you have added the meat,  then tie a secure knot. Simple!  Preheat the oven to the temperature according to the recipe — usually relatively low, then heat water in the ovenproof dish to the same temperature as you have set the oven.  Carefully lower the sealed bag into the hot water and make sure the bag is totally covered with the water.  A good idea is to put a heatproof plate on top before you secure the lid on.  Place the dish in the oven and set your timer for the desired time.  When the cooking time is up, carefully remove the bag from the hot water with tongs and place in a deep dish.  Cut the bag open and let the meat and juices slide out of the bag into the dish.  If the juice is too thin, pour it off into a saucepan and over high heat, reduce to the desired consistency.  The sauce will have all the flavors of the marinade as well as the meat.  And as a bonus you have gorgeous tender and succulent meat!

 Here is my Pork belly recipe that I cook in this way…

Categories
SOUPS/SAUCES/CONDIMENTS

SAMBALS TO SERVE WITH INDIAN FOOD


SAMBALS

SAMBAL 1:
Papaya and banana coated with coconut
Makes about 2 cups/500 ml
1 small papaya, cut into 2 cm/0.7 in pieces
1 banana, cut into 2 cm/0.7 in pieces
4 tablespoons/60 ml cup lemon juice
desiccated coconut

Sprinkle the lemon juice over the banana and papaya and toss in enough desiccated coconut to coat each piece. Serve immediately at room temperature.

SAMBAL 2:
Tomato and onion salsa
Makes about 2 cups/500 ml
4 ripe tomatoes, unpeeled, seeded and cut into 1 cm/0.4 in pieces
1 red onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons/45 ml coriander leaves, finely chopped
1-2/15-30 ml tablespoons lime juice
1 teaspoon/5 ml soft brown sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients and gently mix together.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

Chef’s note: The reason for not peeling the tomato, is simply to keep the tomato pieces intact and not losing too much juice.

 SAMBAL 3:
Cucumber and yogurt mix (Raita)
Makes about 2 cups
1 teaspoon/5 ml each of ground cumin  and mustard seeds, toasted
1 cucumber, seeded and diced
1 cup/250 ml plain yoghurt
½ teaspoon/3 ml ginger, freshly grated
3 sprigs of mint, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fry spices in a dry pan for 1 minute until fragrant and set aside.  In a separate bowl, put the cut cucumber and sprinkle salt over.  Set aside to draw out all the water.   Just before serving the meal, drain the cucumber and mix with the cucumber and yogurt and add the toasted spices, ginger and mint.  Mix gently to combine well.  Serve chilled.

Categories
METHODS

GARAM MASALA


GARAM MASALAGaram masala is a blend of ground spices common in Indian cuisine. Chef’s that specialize in Indian cuisine, all have their own blends.  This is my version:

Add all the following spices to a medium hot pan and roast until fragrant.  Do not let it burn, though.  Then transfer to a coffee grinder, grind until fine and store in a sealed jar in the freezer.
4 x 2.5 cm/1 in cinnamon sticks
3 cloves
3 black peppercorns
2 black cardamom pods, crushed to release the seeds, husks removed
2 teaspoons/10 ml cumin seeds

Categories
GLOSSARY / METHODS

Dashi granules


Dashi is Japan’s fundamental stock and seasoning, much used in Japanese cooking, particularly in Japanese soups and dipping sauces for tempura, stews and salad dressings. It is made from dried flakes of bonito (dried, smoked and cured bonito, a type of tuna, which has a strong aroma but a smoky, mellow flavor), kelp and shiitake mushrooms and are available in granule form in Asian supermarkets.

Categories
GLOSSARY / METHODS

Mirin


Mirin, is a low-alcohol sweet Japanese cooking wine, made of a mixture of medium grain rice, glutinous rice and distilled rice spirit, then matured for two months.  It adds a lovely glaze to grilled foods and a mild sweetness in cooking. Mirin is sold in well stocked supermarkets. It can be substituted with dry sherry to which sugar is added but will not have the same results in flavor.

Categories
SOUPS/SAUCES/CONDIMENTS

Fish and prawn tempura with an Oriental dipping sauce


The tempura prawns can also be served on a potato cake, toast or rice cake; serve also with salmon roe, chopped chives and/or avocado.

SEAFOOD TEMPURAServes 4

The fish:
320 g /11 oz firm white fish, skin removed
8 tiger prawns, shelled and de-veined (always reserve and freeze prawn shells for later use to make seafood stock. )
flour for dusting
salt and freshly ground black pepper
oil for deep-frying

The tempura batter:
1 cup/250 ml self-raising flour
1 tablespoon/15 ml cornstarch
1 cup/250 ml soda water
a few blocks of ice

The dressing:
3 tablespoons/45 ml hot water
1 teaspoon/5 ml dashi granules
1-2 teaspoons/5-10 ml mirin
2 tablespoon/30 l soy sauce

The garnish:
fresh coriander leaves for serving
salmon roe or caviar

See the Glossary for safety tips on deep-frying.
  • Heat the oil in a deep frying pan to about 180°C/356°F.
  • Cut the fish in strips of 3 x 8 cm/1 x 3 in and butterfly the prawns.
  • For the dipping sauce, dissolve the dashi granules in the hot water and let it cool.
  • Add the mirin and soy sauce and mix well.
The mirin is quite sweet but after tasting the sauce you can decide whether you want to add more.
  • In a large bowl, mix the two flours with the or soda water until just combined, but still quite lumpy. Add the blocks of ice to keep the mixture cold.
  • Dust the pieces of fish and prawns lightly with flour and season well.
  • Dip the fish in the batter, gently shake off the excess and place in the hot oil (not more than four pieces at a time).
  • Deep-fry in batches until golden and drain on paper towel.
  • Before adding the next batch, make sure the oil is back to the correct temperature.
  • Keep the cooked fish uncovered in a low oven until you are ready to serve.
  • Serve immediately.

To serve:
Serve the fish tempura pieces stacked on each plate with garnishes of your choice, and the dipping sauce in a small bowl for each serving.

Categories
METHODS

Puff pastry


You can, of course, buy ready-made puff pastry, but the pride and satisfaction of having made a successful puff pastry — watching it rising to a golden crispy crust in the oven — is worth a million dollars. Needless to say, the flavor of the all butter pastry is phenomenal.   See Puff pastry apple and sultana parcels with Calvados butter sauce or Stuffed beef fillet rolled in pastry

500 g/17.6 lbs flour, sifted
500 g/17.6 lbs butter, chilled and cut into small dice
1 teaspoon/5 ml white wine vinegar
1¾ cup/425 ml ice water
pinch of salt

In a food processor, measure 25 g/0.8 oz of the flour and 450 g/15.8 oz of the butter and mix well.  Spoon the mixture out onto a large piece of plastic film and shape into a neat rectangle of approximately 14 x 20 cm/5.5 x 7.8 in.  Put in the refrigerator.

Mix the rest of the flour (450 g/15.8 oz), the balance of the butter (25 g/0.8 oz), the vinegar and salt and process, adding the iced water little by little until the dough comes together nicely.  Lift it out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth.  Roll out and shape into a neat rectangle of about 25 x 35 cm/9.8  x 13.7 in with the edges as straight as possible.  Wrap in plastic film and place in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.    Unwrap the dough and place the butter mixture diagonally over the center of the pastry.  Pull up the far ends of the dough to cover the butter mixture and press the seams down gently to seal them. Press down the sides to seal in the butter.

Roll out the dough carefully (the butter must not break out) in one direction only until it is about three times as long as it is wide and the corners square – gently easing them out with your fingertips if necessary.

Fold the top part a third of the way down, then fold the bottom part over that to make 3 layers.  With the rolling pin, press the seams gently together.  Turn the dough 90° to the right and roll out once more in a rectangle 3 times as long as it is wide.  Repeat the folds and press the edges with the rolling pin.  Turn 90° again.  Wrap in plastic film and store in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Repeat the rolling and folding and turning of 90° four times (every time in the same direction), placing the pastry in the refrigerator after each time.

The pastry is now ready to be used.  If you are not going to use all of it immediately, divide up in size portions you will require and wrap each one individually in plastic film.  It will freeze very well and should be taken out of the freezer about 1 hour to defrost at room temperature.  It is better to defrost it in the refrigerator overnight.