Author: STELLA

I have had no formal chef’s training. Classical piano was my parents’ choice, and that took care of the first 20 years of my life. Journalism and radio followed (my own choices, this time), and these opened many doors for me into different countries, people, cultures — and, of course, foods. In a six week series on radio I used it as a platform for my love of food and shared lots of interesting recipes and food news with listeners.
My earliest memories of food come from the family kitchen at home; I can still remember the wonderful smells of the dishes my mother prepared. I became aware of the flavors of her creations at an early age. Some I enjoyed and preferred, while others depressed me with their lack of interesting flavors. My mother was a good cook, but not a gourmet, and sadly this often showed. What I did appreciate was that she always involved me in the preparation, sharing her knowledge of nutrition, flavor, color, and the harmonies of each plate she dished up. She was also a genius with leftovers and quick meals when unexpected guests arrived. This is one of the things that stands out in my mind, and it inspired me to create wonderful dishes from leftover foods myself.

I carried on with the tradition of carefully planning meals to combine nutrition, color and flavor, while at the same time offering variety and elegant presentation. In the process, I developed a passion for seeking out the best available products, adhering to each season’s offerings, and treating it with the respect it deserves, which eventually became part of my daily culinary life and travels. I did these things not because I wanted to become a chef, but to satisfy myself, family and friends with creations of gorgeous food and exciting flavors. All of which, I hope, is reflected in this blog.

Categories
METHODS SALADS/VINAIGRETTES STARTERS/SIDES

Steamed artichokes with garlic butter


When buying artichokes, choose those in which the petals are still rather closed, not open. They will be more fresh and more tender and should look as if it had been “frost kissed”.

artichokes-and-butter.jpg

  • Slice about 2 cm/¾ inch off the tip of the artichoke and pull off any smaller leaves towards the base and on the stem.
  • Rinse the artichokes in running cold water.
  • Steam the artichokes over water with a clove of garlic, a slice of lemon, and a bay leaf for 25 to 45 minutes or until the outer leaves can easily be pulled off.
Cooking time depends on how large the artichoke is, the larger, the longer it takes to cook.

How to Eat an Artichoke

  • For maximum flavour and delight, the artichokes should be eaten comfortably hot.
  • Serve with a dip, either melted butter mixed with creamed garlic (if you wish), or mayonnaise with a little sherry vinegar mixed in is also delicious.
  • Pull off outer petals, one at a time, dip the white fleshy end in the melted butter or sauce. then tightly grip the other end of the petal.
  • Place as much of the leave as you can in the mouth, and pull through the teeth to remove the soft, pulpy, delicious portion of the petal. Discard the remaining petal.
  • Continue until all of the petals are removed.
  • With a knife or spoon, scrape out and discard the inedible fuzzy part (called the “choke”) which covers the artichoke heart.
  • The remaining bottom of the artichoke is the heart. Cut into smaller pieces and mix with the rest of the garlic butter.
Messy, but does it matter?
Categories
CONDIMENTS GLOSSARY / METHODS

Pistachio dukkah


A homemade Egyptian spice mix.

Serve over poached eggs; with olive oil and flatbread, dipping the flatbread in the oil, then in the dukkah; or sprinkle over roasting pumkin, carrot and zucchini with olive oil.

¼ cup sesame seeds
½ cup pistachio kernels, finely chopped
3 teaspoons ground coriander
3 teaspoons ground cumin
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon salt

Place the sesame seeds in a medium non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until toasted and golden.
Add the pistachio, coriander, cumin and pepper and cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until aromatic. Stir in the salt and set aside to cool.

Store dukkah in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to 1 month.

Categories
DESSERTS

Banana and marzipan spring rolls with cinnamon and banana liqueur


BANANA MARZIPAN2.jpgServes 4

The marinade:
2 teaspoons/10 ml brown sugar
a pinch cinnamon
1 cup/250 ml banana liqueur
juice of 1 lemon
4 bananas, peeled

The spring rolls:
2 sheets spring roll pastry, cut in half
1 tablespoon/15 ml cornstarch, mixed with water to make a light sludge
4 strips of marzipan, 2 cm/0.7 in wide, 8 cm/3 in long and 2 mm/ 0.07 in thick
oil for deep-frying

  • Combine the sugar, cinnamon and banana liqueur in a shallow glass dish. Cut the peeled bananas lengthways in half and each half in half, then add to the liqueur marinade and leave for 30 minutes.
  • Drain and reserve the marinade.
  • Brush the edges of each pastry sheet with the cornstarch sludge as you go along.
  • Put a strip of marzipan between two pieces of banana, on the cut side, and place on a sheet of pastry.
  • Roll the pastry up, folding in the sides to prevent the filling from squeezing out, and put aside under a damp cloth. Repeat with the rest of the banana.
  • Heat the oil to about 180°C/356°F and deep-fry the spring rolls until golden. Drain on kitchen towel. Keep warm uncovered.
Safety and practical tips for deep-frying.

To serve:

  • Slice each roll in half at an angle and arrange on the serving plates.
  • Pour the reserved marinade into dipping bowls and serve immediately.
Categories
MAIN COURSE

Crispy skin duck breast with Puy lentils and glazed peaches


DUCK BREAST WITH PUY LENTILS AND CARAMELIZED PEACHED
Serves 4

4 duck breasts
2 teaspoons/10 ml five spice powder
salt

For the Puy lentils:
1½ cup/375 ml chicken stock
1 cup/250 ml Puy lentils
2 tablespoons/30 ml carrots, finely diced
1 tablespoons/15 ml celery, finely diced
1 tablespoon/15 ml shallot, finely diced
4 thyme sprigs

These choice lentils were originally from Puy in France, but are also grown in North America and Italy. They are a very good source of cholesterol-lowering fiber but are a special benefit in managing blood sugar levels. They are especially good in salads since they remain firm after cooking and have a rich flavor. See the recipe for Puy lentil, celeriac and hazelnut salad.

2 teaspoons/10 ml Sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon/5 ml coarse sea salt
1 medium red onion, finely diced
1 tablespoon/15 ml olive oil

For the peaches:
juice of two oranges
1 tablespoon/15 ml butter
2 tablespoons/30 ml sugar (depending on the sweetness of the peaches)
4 firm ripe peaches, peeled and quartered
2 tablespoons/30 ml Peach Schnapps (optional)

For the sauce:
1 tablespoon/15 ml butter
trimmings from the duck breasts
1 small onion, finely diced
½ cup/125 ml red wine
2 cups/500 ml duck stock (or chicken stock)
2 teaspoons/10 ml tomato paste
1 tablespoon/30 ml soy sauce

Start with the Puy lentils:  

  • In a saucepan bring the chicken stock to a boil, add the lentils, vegetables and the thyme and cook for about 20 minutes.
    Do not add salt at this time as it will prevent the lentils from becoming tender.
  • Test by squashing a lentil between two fingers. If it is soft and gives way then the lentils are cooked.
  • If not all the liquid has evaporated, drain the excess off, stir in the vinegar, salt, onion and olive oil and keep in a warm place.

For the duck breasts:

  • Trim the duck breasts and reserve the trimmings.
  • Lightly score the skins of the duck breasts and rub the five spice on the meat side.
  • Leave to stand for about 10 minutes.
  • Heat a dry heavy-based large frying pan to medium and lay the duck breasts, skin side down.
  • Fry for about 8 minutes, until most of the fat has rendered and the skin is golden brown.
  • Turn the duck breasts over and lightly brown the other side for about 3 minutes.
  • They should feel slightly springy when pressed.
  • Remove from the pan and leave to rest in a warm place while you make the sauce.

For the sauce:

  • In a wide pan, melt the butter, then fry the duck trimmings and onion until the onion is transluscent.
  • Deglaze with the red wine and boil until all the wine has evaporated.
  • Add the duck stock (or chicken stock), mix in the tomato paste and add the soy sauce.
  • Bring to a boil, skimming off the fat constantly, and reduce to half.
  • Season to taste.

For the peaches:

  • In a frying pan, bring the orange juice to a boil with the sugar and butter, then add the peaches.
  • Cook until the peaches are tender and the sauce starts to caramelize.
  • Add the Schnapps (if using), swirl around the pan to glaze all the peaches thorougly.
  • Set aside in a warm place until ready to serve.

 

Categories
STARTERS/SIDES

Puy lentils with celeriac, hazelnuts and mint


Serves 4

Celeriac is probably my favourite root vegetable and Puy lentils an all time favourite pulse. Celeriac has a delicate, yet very nutty flavour, and has an elegant, almost, creamy smoothness. Like all good vegetables, it is marvellous, simply with a bit of olive oil. This recipe combines the lentils with the celeriac and nuts to create a hearty autumn vegetarian main course. Serve it warm, with a radish, cucumber and dill salad dressed with soured cream and olive oil. Or, allow it to cool down, then take it to work for lunch or on a picnic. It makes a marvelous side-dish with pork or duck.  (See Crispy skin duck breast with Puy lentils and glazed peaches and Marinated pork belly “sous vide”.

¾ cup/180 ml Puy lentils
3 cups/750 ml vegetable stock (or chicken stock if not for vegetarians)
1 tablespoon/15 ml carrot, finely diced
1 tablespoon/15 ml onion, finely diced
4 thyme sprigs
1 cup/250 ml celeriac, cut into 1 cm/¾” blocks
4 tablespoons/60 ml olive oil
3 tablespoons/45 ml hazelnut oil
3 tablespoons/45 ml good-quality red wine vinegar
4 tabelspoons/60 ml chopped mint
60g/2 oz whole hazelnuts, roasted and chopped roughly
salt and black pepper

Combine the lentils, stock, carrot and onion, and thyme in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 minutes, then add the celeriac, and cook for another 10 minutes or until the lentils are al dente. Drain in a sieve.

In a large bowl mix the hot lentils (if they have cooled down they won’t soak up all the flavours) with the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of the hazelnut oil, the vinegar, some black pepper and plenty of salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
To serve straight away, stir in half the mint and half the hazelnuts. Pile onto a serving dish or in a bowl and drizzle the remaining hazelnut oil on top. Garnish with the rest of the mint and hazelnuts.
To serve cold, wait for the lentils and celeriac to cool down before finally adjusting the seasoning and possibly adding some more vinegar, if you like. Add hazelnut oil, mint and nuts in the same way as when serving hot.

Categories
STARTERS/SIDES

Potato souffle made with leftover mashed potato


Cooking a soufflé is extremely easy and lots of fun as long as you stick to the basic rules.  The ramekins for example should be prepared correctly — a generous coating of melted butter and fine breadcrumbs inside is necessary to help the soufflé rising much easier. Use a pastry brush to paint the inside of the ramekins with butter and lightly coat with fine breadcrumbs, then place the ramekins in the fridge for at least 15 minutes before use.

The oven needs to be preheated to a high temperature. The soufflés will take anywhere between 7 and 10 minutes even up to 15 minutes to cook, depending on the size. Another rule is to never open the oven door until the end of the cooking process. This will cause the soufflé to fall (deflate) and all your hard work will go to waste.

The eggs are the most important component in the preparation of the soufflé because it is the air trapped inside the egg white what makes the soufflés rise in the oven. The egg whites should be whipped to very stiff peaks, then finally and very gently folded into the base whilst trying to keep as much of the air in as possible.

The baked soufflé should be served immediately before your lovely puffed soufflés starts deflating. It is therefore very important to have everything else you serve with the soufflé ready to be served.

POTATO SOUFFLE

2 tablespoons/30 g butter, plus extra for greasing
3 teaspoons/15 ml fine breadcrumbs for coating the ramekins
1¼ cup/300 g mashed potato (leftover or made from scratch
1⅓ cups/85g cheddar, grated
⅓ cups/30g Parmesan cheese, finely grated
2 tablespoons/30 ml fresh chives, finely chopped
2 eggs
freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons/90 ml milk
paprika, for garnish (optional)

  • Preheat the oven to 220ºC/450ºF and put a baking sheet in the oven to heat up.
  • Butter 4 ramekin dishes and dust with breadcrumbs and place in the refrigerator. Do this at least 15 minutes before baking.
  • Separate the eggs and add the egg yolks together with the cheese, chives and black pepper to the mashed potato. Stir very well to combine.
  • In a small pan warm the milk with the butter until the butter melts and pour over the potato mixture. Stir again until totally combine.
  • Whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then first fold one third of the egg whites into the potato mixture.
  • Finally, gently fold the rest of the egg white into the potato mixture keeping as much air in as possible.
  • Fill the prepared ramekins with the potato mixture and sprinkle paprika (if using) on top.
  • Place in the oven on the preheated baking sheet and bake for 10-15 minutes until puffed and golden. Serve immediately
For variation and to add extra interest and flavor, add chopped cooked bacon or any other fresh herbs.

 

 

Categories
MAIN COURSE

Chicken and mushroom pie


It is welcome at any buffet dinner party, family gathering, or festive celebration where delicious food and good company come together. This creates an inviting atmosphere that encourages mingling and enjoyment, allowing everyone to indulge in a variety of culinary delights while forging lasting memories with friends and loved ones.

Categories
MAIN COURSE STARTERS/SIDES

Macaroni and cheese


This ultimate comfort food with its golden, buttery, crunchy topping, is always a welcome friend to all people young and old, for any occasion — it and can be made for one person or a big group of family and friends.  Just adjust the quantities.  It freezes well and a big quantity can be made in advance and frozen in portions.  Easy and quick and together with a fresh crunchy salad, a simple feast ….. and its vegetarian!

—————– Photograph to come——————————

For the cheese sauce:
1 liter/1¾ pt milk, heated
50 g/1¾ oz butter
50 g/1¾ oz plain flour, sifted
250 g/9 oz cheddar, grated
1 teaspoon/5 ml English mustard
½ teaspoon garlic powder (optional)

For the Parmesan and crumb topping:
2 tablespoons butter (or olive oil)
1½ cup/375 ml dried breadcrumbs
½ cup/ 120 ml grated Parmesan cheese

For the macaroni:
400 g/14 oz dried macaroni, rigatoni or penne, etc
salt
1 tablespoon/15 ml olive oil
6 spring onions, finely sliced
1 tablespoon/15 ml sour cream (or plain yoghurt)
200 g/7 oz tomatoes, peeled and sliced thinly
2 tablespoons/30 ml fresh parsley, finely chopped

  • Preheat the oven to 200°C/390ºF.
  • Lightly grease an heat-proof dish the size required.
  • In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, then stir in the flour and cook for 1-2 minutes.
  • Gradually stir in the hot milk and cook gently, whilst whisking constantly, until all the milk is used up and a smooth sauce is formed.
  • Reduce the heat and simmer for 3-4 minutes or until thickened.
  • Remove from the heat and add the cheese and mustard, then season well with salt and freshly ground white pepper and the garlic powder (if using).
  • Meanwhile, for the crumb topping, melt the butter (or heat the oil) over medium heat and add the breadcrumbs.
  • Stir constantly to avoid the crumbs burning, then remove from the heat and add the Parmesan cheese. Mix thoroughly and set aside.
  • Fill a large saucepan more than half full with water and bring to the boil.
  • Add salt and cook the pasta until al dente.
  • Drain the pasta, discard the water and pour the pasta back into the saucepan.
  • Drizzle the olive oil over and stir gently, then add the spring onions and the sour cream (or yoghurt) and mix well.
  • Pour the sauce over the pasta, mix well and then spoon a third of the mixture into the prepared baking dish.
  • Place the sliced tomato and parsley in a layer over the pasta, sprinkle over some salt, then pour the rest of the pasta mixture in and smooth the top.
  • Sprinkle the Parmesan and crumb mixture evenly on top and bake in the oven until the crumbs are golden and the sauce is bubbling lightly around the edges. It should take about 12-15 minutes.
  • Remove from the oven and let sit for about 10 minutes before serving.
Categories
STARTERS/SIDES

Melanzane


MELANZANEServes 6

Melanzane, the dish as I got to know it, is actually called Aubergine Parmigiana or Melanzane alla Parmigiana in the big culinary world out there. Whatever it’s called, it is totally delicious, and works on a warm day or a cold winter’s day; it is also vegetarian and the copious amounts of cheese sort out the comforting aspect.
There are questions, though. To salt or not to salt, to peel or not to peel? To use tinned tomatoes or fresh ones?

Salting the aubergine beforehand is simply to remove the bitterness, is the general opinion, and the true belief by the aubergine lovers is that it prevents the aubergine from soaking up too much oil when frying. It may be true, but for me the salt gives it more flavor and makes me feel better about the possible bitterness. As far as frying is concerned, I think it will soak up the oil anyway and a good draining and patting with kitchen paper will do the trick.

Peeling the aubergine skin is simply a personal issue and the skin provides a welcome textural contrast in a dish that can otherwise tend to be mushy. It also prevents the slices from falling apart when fried. When the dish is finally baked and put in front of you, I see no harm in the individual removing the skin without much trouble.

I have nothing against canned tomatoes, but I tend to taste the tin and that is a no-no for me. I prefer using fresh ones even if it is quite cumbersome to peel and seed, and the flavor in the end is the winner.

This Melanzane recipe, nevertheless, is a great way to serve aubergine. By frying and layering it with Parmesan, mozarella and tomatoes and then baking it until golden on top, makes a very satisfying vegetarian dish, and is also great served as a side-dish to roast meat or fish.

3 large aubergine
olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove regular garlic, finely sliced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 kg/2  lb fresh ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
2 large tomatoes, peeled and cut in slices
salt and freshly ground black pepper
wine vinegar
1 cup fresh basil, roughly torn
2-3 cups Parmesan cheese, freshly grated finely
2 cups dried breadcrumbs
a little fresh oregano, leaves chopped
2 cups hard mozzarella, roughly sliced and chopped, or grated
vegetable oil for frying

  • Slice the aubergine in 1 cm/¼ in slices, arrange on a large cooling rack and sprinkle liberally with salt on both sides of each slice. Let it sit for about 30 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, heat some all in a frying pan and lightly fry the onion, garlic and dried oregano until the onion is soft and the garlic golden.
  • Add the chopped tomatoes to the onion mixture, give it a good stir, add salt and pepper, then put a lid on the pan and simmer for 15 minutes.
  • When its reduced and sweet, add a few drops of the wine vinegar.
  • Meanwhile, in a large frying pan pour the oil about 1½ cm/1 in deep and heat to about 170ºC/330ºF.
  • Rinse the aubergine slices very well to get rid of the excess salt, and pat dry.
  • Fry the aubergine slices until lightly golden on both sides and tender. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. You may have to do this in batches.
  • Grease a heat-proof dish (25 x 15cm/9½ x 12 in) or six individual dishes.
  • Pour all the tomato sauce in the dish and spread it evenly, then put a single layer of aubergines on top of that, followed by a generous sprinkle of parmesan cheese.
  • Next comes a layer of sliced tomato, a few bits of torn basil and some salt and then a layer of mozzarella cheese.
  • Repeat these layers until you’ve used up all the ingredients, finishing with a little sauce and the rest of the Parmesan, mixed with the breadcrumbs, a little olive oil, and the chopped fresh oregano.
    If you have any mozzarella left over, mix that in too.
  • Bake the Melanzane in the oven at 190°C/375°F for half an hour until golden, crisp and bubbly.
  • It is best eaten straight away while the mozzarella is still gooey.

 

Categories
SALADS/VINAIGRETTES

Asian spice dressing


This dressing is delicious over roast aubergine, drizzled over steamed pak choi and a randomly sprinkled over mixed lettuce leaves.

1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon mirin
black pepper to taste

In a small mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients well, cover and refrigerate for 1 – 2 hours to allow the flavors to blend. Shake well before using.