Month: January 2014

Categories
METHODS

TOMATO WATER


Tomato water is an extremely interesting ingredient with its unexpected intense tomato flavor that can be used in a variety of ways.  It is also a great way to use excess quantities of ripe tomatoes and is very easy to make.

Take 2 kg/4.4 lbs very ripe tomatoes, chop roughly and scrape into a food processor.  Add 1 tablespoon coarse salt and blend thoroughly.  Line a sieve with a double layer of cheesecloth and let it rest over a deep bowl.  Ladle the processed tomatoes into the cheesecloth and let it sit overnight in the refrigerator.  You might be tempted to push the tomato to force the juice through, but don’t!  Their own weight will be sufficient to extract the water.

Without squeezing the cloth, discard the contents.  Tomato water keeps, covered and chilled for 4 days, otherwise freeze for later use in small containers for up to 3 months.

Categories
GLOSSARY / METHODS METHODS

CHICKEN STOCK


¼ cup/60 ml olive oil
4 celery sticks, coarsely chopped
2 leeks, coarsely chopped
3 large onions, quartered
3 large carrots, coarsely chopped
½ whole head garlic, unpeeled
3 kg/6.6 lbs raw free range chicken carcasses
5 liters/10.5 pts cold water
6 black peppercorns
6 coriander seeds

Bouquet garni:
1 large leek
1 celery stick
1 large sprig thyme
1 small bunch of parsley
1 bay leaf
Tie the leeks, celery, thyme, parsley stalks and bay leaf together with
kitchen string.

In a large stock pot, heat the olive oil and lightly fry the celery, leeks, onions and carrots.  Add  the raw chicken carcasses and cover with the water. Add the peppercorns and coriander seeds, and bring to a gentle simmer, frequently skimming the brown foam that forms on the surface.

Add the bouquet garni to the pot, return to a gentle simmer for about 4½ hours, still skimming frequently but do not stir the stock.  Remove from the heat and let it cool to room temperature, then strain it by ladling the contents of the pan through a muslin-lined colander set over a large bowl. Try not to disturb the solids at the bottom, it will make the stock cloudy.  Cool the strained stock, remove all traces of fat, then chill or freeze in smaller containers until needed.  Discard the solids.

For a brown chicken stock simply brown the chicken carcasses or joints in the oven at 200°C/400°F for about 15-20 minutes, before adding to the stock pot.

Categories
GLOSSARY / METHODS METHODS

FISH STOCK


½ cup/125 ml olive oil
1 small leek, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 celery stick, finely chopped
1 small bulb fennel, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon/3 ml dried fennel seeds
2 kg/4.6 lbs fish bones, thoroughly rinsed and roughly chopped
1½ cups/375 ml dry white wine
¼ cup/60 ml  Noilly Prat
8 cups/2 liters cold water
2 sprigs each of parsley, thyme and tarragon
½ lemon, unpeeled
1 teaspoon/5 ml white peppercorns

In a large pot, lightly saute the leek, onion, celery, fennel and garlic in the oil.  Add the fish bones, wine, Noilly Prat and the dried herbs, and cook until the wine  has evaporated.  Add the water and bring to the boil.  Skim the surface frequently. Add the fresh herbs, lemon and peppercorns, and cook gently for 20 minutes.  Remove from the heat and let the stock cool.  Strain through a muslin lined colander, but take care not to disturb the solids at the bottom.  Leave to cool, then chill or freeze in smaller containers until needed. Discard the solids.

Categories
SOUPS/SAUCES/CONDIMENTS

NOILLY PRAT


Noilly Prat is a special French vermouth excellent for cooking and can be used in most ways that wine, brandy or sherry can be used. It gives a unique flavor to fish and chicken and can be used in a wide range of cocktails. Also add it to sauces, stews, risottos and fruit dishes.
Noilly Prat is infused with a long list of herbs ie camomile, coriander, bitter orange peel, nutmeg, etc. but the full list remains secret. Each of the plants and herbs used is prepared in the traditional manner and only plants that have been dried slowly are accepted, resulting in flavoring qualities unique to Noilly Prat…

Categories
SOUPS/SAUCES/CONDIMENTS

Crème Fraîche


To make your own crème fraîche:
Take 1 cup/250 ml double cream and add 1 teaspoon/5 ml cultured buttermilk. Stir together in a saucepan and heat gently to 85°C/185°F. Pour into a container, partially covered and leave at warm room temperature for 6-8 hours, or until thickened.  When thick, stir the cream, cover and refrigerate. The flavor intensifies and the cream thickens the longer it stands.  Makes 1 cup/250 ml.

Categories
MAIN COURSE

Deep-fried fish, mixed seafood and onion rings



Served on a bed of noodles and cucumber ribbons with a creamy caper mayonnaise dressing
BLOCK HORIZONTAL LINEServes 4

The best way to complete a successful deep-fried meal is to prepare all the ingredients in advance and have the salad and dressing ready before cooking the fish and seafood.

DEEP-FRIED FISH AND SEAFOOD PASTA SALAD

The batter:
½ cup/125 ml cream
1 clove garlic, creamed
3 egg yolks
2 tablespoons/30 ml Parmesan cheese, finely grated
1 tablespoon/15 ml plain flour
1 tablespoon/15 ml cornstarch
½ cup/125 ml beer
pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper

 The fish and seafood:
120 g/4 oz firm white fish, skinned
120 g/4 oz prawns,
120 g/4 oz squid with tentacles
2 large onions, cut into 1 cm/0.4 in rings
flour for dusting
salt and freshly ground black pepper
oil for deep-frying

The caper mayonnaise:
2 hard-boiled eggs
½ teaspoon/3 ml Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup/125 ml peanut oil
2 teaspoons/10 ml white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon/15 ml capers, drained, rinsed and roughly chopped
2 tablespoons/30 ml gherkins (cornichons), finely chopped
1 tablespoon/15 ml of each of parsley, tarragon, chives and chervil,
finely chopped
paprika for sprinkling

This recipe contains raw eggs and is not suitable for pregnant women, the elderly or very young children.

The noodle salad:
250 g/9 oz noodles
1 tablespoon/15 ml olive oil
1 cucumber

For the batter:  In a large bowl mix cream, garlic, egg yolks, cheese, flour and cornstarch, then add the beer to make a smooth batter (you may not need all the beer).   Season with freshly ground black pepper.  It is important to be aware of the danger of working with hot oil.  See the safety tips for deep-frying.

Heat enough oil to 180° C/356° F in a pan suitable for deep-frying.
Cut the fish into 3 x 3 cm/1 x 1 in pieces, and peel and devein the prawns (reserving the shells for later use).  Remove the tentacles from the squid body (remove the beak from the tentacle), cut the squid open lengthwise, score on the inside.  

Working in batches, dust the fish and seafood with the seasoned flour and  shake off the excess.  Starting with the fish, dip into the batter, coating it all over, letting the excess batter drip off, then deep-fry for 2-3 minutes until golden brown.  Drain on kitchen towel and set aside in a  warm oven with the door ajar.  Repeat with the prawns but cook for 1 minute only.  Repeat with the tentacles, which will need to cook for only about 30 seconds. (Let the oil come back to the right temperature before frying each batch.)

Break the onion rings up and repeat the process for deep-frying, drain and set aside with the seafood.

Heat about ¼ cup/60 ml of oil in another frying pan and quickly fry the squid.  Keep warm.

For the caper mayonnaise: put the yolks of the boiled eggs with the mustard and salt and pepper in a pestle and mortar or blender and mix well until a smooth paste forms.  While mixing, add half the oil, drop by drop, until all the ingredients amalgamated well.  Carry on mixing and add the vinegar, then slowly add the rest of the oil.  Transfer the mixture to a bowl and mix in the rest of the ingredients except the paprika.  Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary. The paprika will be sprinkled over the sauce once it has be spooned onto the serving plates. Keep the sauce refrigerated until ready to serve.

Cook the noodles in salted water, until they still  have a bite to it.  Drain and toss with the olive oil.

On a mandolin, cut the cucumber into ribbons, sprinkle with salt, sugar and rice wine vinegar.  Set aside.

By the time you are ready to deep-fry, everything else must be prepared and ready for use as the crispiness of the batter will spoil if it sits for too long before serving.

To serve:
Serve the seafood and onion rings on a bed of noodles with the drained cucumber ribbons.  Drizzle the mayonnaise around and sprinkle the paprika over the mayonnaise.

Categories
MAIN COURSE

Poached salmon in a seafood broth with fennel and tomato


Serves 4

Salmon

The stock:
1/3 cup/80 ml olive oil
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 leek, roughly chopped
2 celery stalks, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon/15 ml fennel seeds
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon/15 ml orange zest
8 ripe tomatoes, skinned and chopped
1 tablespoon/15 ml tomato paste
1 medium-hot red chili, seeded and chopped
1 teaspoon/5 ml saffron strands, soaked in cold water
1 sprigs of thyme
4 cups/1 liter fish stock, heated

15 g/½ oz butter
2 tablespoons/30 ml olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
reserved shells of prawns
¼ cup/60 ml white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper

The seafood:
4 tablespoons/60 ml olive oil
4 x 250 Norwegian salmon fillets, the skin removed
8 large prawns, shelled and de-veined, reserve shells for stock
3 ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded and diced chopped
1 teaspoon/5 ml  Pernod
1 tablespoon/15 ml cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons/15 ml cold water (optional)

The aïoli (garlic mayonnaise):
4 egg yolks
½ teaspoon/3 ml salt
3 cloves garlic (more if you wish)
2 teaspoons/10 ml lemon juice
2 cup/500 ml groundnut oil

The garnish:
2 tablespoons/30 ml fresh coriander, finely chopped
2 tablespoons/30 ml dill, finely chopped
crusty white bread, thinly sliced and lightly toasted

In a large saucepan, heat the oil and sauté the onions, bacon, leeks, celery, fennel seeds and garlic until soft.  Add the orange zest, tomatoes, tomato paste, chili, saffron and soaking liquid, thyme, and fish stock and bring to the boil.  Boil for 15 minutes, then remove from the heat and set aside.
In a separate frying pan, heat the butter and olive oil and sauté the garlic, shells of the prawns until golden and aromatic.  Deglaze the pan with the wine and reduce until half the wine has evaporated.  Add the contents of the pan to the prepared stock and set aside until ready to poach the fish and prawns.
Strain the thoroughly and discard the solids. Add the liquid to the prepared stock.

In a saucepan big enough for the fish, prawns and broth. pour the prepared broth and bring to a gentle simmer.  Add the diced tomatoes and Pernod and, if desired, thicken slightly with the cornstarch. Let it simmer for a few minutes longer until slightly thickened, the add the  salmon to the broth.  Poach for about 4 minutes, then add the prawns and poach 4 minutes more or until you are satisfied that the prawns are cooked.  Check seasoning, then turn off the heat and prepare the serve.
For the aïoli, blend together the egg yolks, salt, garlic and lemon juice in a food processor. Add the oil in a thin steady stream while the machine keeps running.  Continue until all the oil is incorporated. Check the seasoning.
(See the Glossary on the use of excess egg whites.)
This recipe contains raw eggs and is not suitable for pregnant women, the elderly or very young children.

To serve:
Lift the fish from the broth and place into deep pre-heated bowls.  Carefully pour the broth around the salmon, add three prawns to each dish, and sprinkle the fresh coriander and dill over. Serve the crusty bread and small bowls filled with the aïoli on the side.